Before the 1980s, the New Territories were made up of peaceful countryside, with duck farms, fields, and old villages. No more. A vast 1,008-sq.-km region that stretches from Kowloon to the border of mainland China, the New Territories has long been Hong Kong's answer to its growing population. Huge government housing projects mushroomed throughout the New Territories, especially in towns along the railway and subway lines. It is said: A once-sleepy villages became concrete jungles virtually overnight. There is nothing "New" about New Territories, may I add.

Close to one-half of Hong Kong's population -- about 3.5 million people -- lives in the New Territories, many in subsidized housing. The New Territories, therefore, are vitally important to the SAR's well-being and its future. In fact, the region is so different from the city itself that it's almost like visiting an entirely different country.

Traveling in the New Territories, we noticed women wearing wide-brimmed hats with a black fringe. These women are Hakka, as are most of the farmers of the New Territories. During the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), some of the Hakka clans built walls around their homes to protect themselves against roving bandits and invaders. A handful of these walled villages still exist today, along with ancestral halls and other ancient, traditional buildings.

The "Land Between" Tour emphasized both the rural side of Hong Kong and its urban development, enabling us to learn about the lifestyle, customs, and beliefs of the local people.

The first stop is the Yuen Yuen Institute, which demonstrates the significance of contributions from Confucian, Taoist and Buddhist to the local society.

Then out into the countryside, past banana plantations and up the tallest mountain in Hong Kong, Tai Mo Shan, for a panoramic view of Hong Kong Island and the industrial town of Tsuen Wan to the south. Sadly we didn't even take out our camera's as it was raining and totally clouded over.

'The Land Between' continues heading north through the lush, rural landscapes passing both Shek Kong and Lam Chuen Valley en route to the traditional rural market at Luen Wo. Many colourful stalls piled high with dried fish, herbs and vegetables, fresh fruit and flowers - a pungent combination.

We soon thereafter arrived at the border of Hong Kong and China, stopping at Luk Keng. Close by is a Hakka Village and a bird sanctuary where Chinese pond herons and night herons nest. Next, it's a trip through the Plover Cove Country park, and on to the fishing village of Sam Mun Tsai to see how local fisherfolk breed fish in submerged cages.

We then returned to Hong Kong via the new industrial town of Tai Po, the Chinese University and Sha Tin, once a sleepy village and now the site of an impressive new town.

The New Territories is an enormously diverse suburban area full of contrasts to the cosmopolitan city centre. More than a century ago, this area was entirely rural. Today, the area still abounds in rural beauty. Yet modern times have made their mark. The Land Between stands both as a gentle reminder of Hong Kong's past as well as a symbol of its hopes and plans for the future