Today we went to Valparaíso, Chile. I´ve been intrigued by the city ever since my good friend studied abroad there in college. It was a quick bus ride from Santiago, and we decided to start are day by walking to a French restaurant recommended in our Lonely Planet for lunch. The walk looked innocent enough on the map, but soon we found that Valpo is a city full of hills that are not to be underestimated! However, climbing the steep grades (I swear some approached 45 degrees), was totally worth it. Valpo is the most colorful, playful, and expressive city I´ve ever seen. It reminded me of somewhere a precocious and artistically inclined 8-year-old might create if asked to imagine his or her ideal city. Full of ups and downs with no regard whatsoever for those who are not in shape or ageing knees. Connected through a series of knotted and circuitous roads that sometimes end abruptly and more often lead you somewhere you could have sworn you´d just left. Stunning views of blue sky and bluer water sneaking in from between buildings. The entire city funcitioning as a canvas and a palate of paint filled with only the brightest hues. Such detail, color, and whimsical fancy that one has to look at the same view from at least three different angles to begin to appreciate its beauty. Cats lounging in the sun. It was wonderful. After the very delicious French menú, we spent the day wandering from place to place by foot and not minding if we got a little lost along the way. First we went up Ascensor Concepción. Next we wandered down to Plaza Sotomayor to look at the ships in the harbor and wat an ice cream cone. Finally we hiked up and up, following the most charming path, to La Sebastiana (another Neruda house). We knew it was closed (Monday), but the walk was such sweet excersize for out legs and imaginations alike that it didn´t matter.