Chau Doc is very much a stopping-off point for tourists on their way down the Mekong- few would choose to come here but there's a border point just up the river so it's easy to cruise down from Cambodia, stay over an make your way into Vietnam by boat or bus. And just as well people don't plan to stay because it's a grim, noisy wee town without much going for it.

We didn't know if we'd stay here or push on to Rach Gia in the day but our guide on the boat offered to book CD accommodation, bus in the morning to RG and boat to Phu Quoc at lunchtime, all as we cruised down the river. Sweet. Same guide then booked us the first two nights on Phu Quoc when everything seemed booked up.

The hotel we stayed in was fairly rubbish but, hey, it was one night, it was clean and it was eight bucks including "breakfast" (a small baguette made mostly of air, served with bright yellow marg and poor jam). We contrasted our cheapo accommodation with a night out at the Victoria hotel (v posh) but, though we played pool, this time we stuck to fruit juice to give the bellies a break.

Sad news: Suzie's sunglasses have broken and their replacements were obtained from a somewhat limited range in Chau Doc's optician. They seemed to sell glasses which either protect the eyes OR look stylish. Hmm. She's gone for a natty pair of Puma shades.