07-09/01/20

Up early, well extra early due to our rock-hard bed; not so difficult though as our backs and shoulders are still killing. We definitely WON'T be missing our sleeping arrangements. We're off to Ho Chi Minh City or HCMC. However, its original name Saigon is favoured by most.

Saigon is in southern Vietnam nearly 1000km from Hoi An; so we fly. Our flight is delayed but luckily only for an hour and we sigh with relief when we start boarding. However, the sigh of relief quickly changed to a feeling of disgust - the plane absolutely stank, so much so that we ended up stuffing our nostrils with tissue paper for three quarters of the flight until the smell dissipated. We still can't agree on what the smell was; David thinks it was the toilets but I'm sure it was the over use of cleaning products used just before we boarded, we'll never know?

Saigon, although not the capital is larger, more populated and is the business hub of Vietnam. It's famous for its public role in the Vietnam War and it's French colonial architecture. The Rex Hotel is a famous landmark, here the American correspondents and journalists reported on the war from its' legendary rooftop bar. Also, being in the south it's much sunnier and warmer than grey Hanoi. Having visited a few years back and already seen the sights we're only here for a few days. After the delayed flight we check-in to The Lotus Boutique Hotel, both praying for a comfortable bed - we're running out of Tiger Balm!!

Unpacked and a quick spruce up and having been here previously has prepared us for the millions of motorbikes that ride on the pavement (as well as the road ignoring all traffic signals) we set off to Pho 2000 ,our favourite Pho canteen, made famous when Bill Clinton ate there in 2000.

The next morning after a decent night's sleep we visit to The War Remnants Museum. Its written and visual accounts of the Vietnam War and its legacy are harrowing and we leave subdued. To lighten our mood we head for the beautiful colonial area a fifteen minute walk away. On entering the famous post office building we can't believe it when greeted by Katrin and Hernan our recent Workaway colleagues who are sitting on the old fashioned benches writing postcards. They arrived last night on the overnight sleeper bus from Mi Nhe, a seaside resort in Central Vietnam and are here for a few days before travelling to Cambodia. Isn't the world a small place?

That evening we head off to Pasteur St where there is a trend for speakeasy style bars and restaurants reminiscent of prohibition America, but styled in the 1950's/60's. Some are hidden down small dark alleyways behind velvet curtains where customers are ushered into swanky drinking dens. Others are retro style with 60's Vietnamese decor and original furniture. Kicking off at The Winking Seal we down a couple of delicious Bohemian b****** IPA's and then head off for dinner at The Secret, a restaurant David had carefully selected. Being the techy couple we have now become we use Google Maps to locate it. We turn right and then left, past street vendors and banks only to turn into the street our hotel is on - The Secret is a secret as it's right next door!!

Heading out early the following morning to miss the midday heat we are now feeling refreshed having had a good night's sleep due to a decent mattress. Sightseeing done we decide to head back towards our hotel for a back, shoulder and neck massage; as we want to make sure our backs continue to improve. (sorry Kisrtin, any excuse to fit in a massage). It's past midday, boiling hot and we have a 2km walk back to the hotel. Thinking of our massages we ignore the fact we are drenched in sweat and march on. Five minutes into the walk I stumble; looking down to see why and I notice the sole of my left sandal is almost hanging off. "Oh no" I exclaim "I don't have any other walking sandals and we have almost two more months of travelling left!!!". We then proceed back to the hotel me hobbling whilst praying we'll see a cobbler on the way…

Aside: When planning our three month adventure we thought we'd accounted for every eventuality. I packed a sewing kit, eye masks, kettle and even tea bags and an ice tray. However, I didn't think we'd need glue, or for that matter a spare screw for David's reading glasses. For the past few days, David has worn his glasses with only one arm (not literally), as the screw on one must have come loose and fallen out. He has been reading with great difficulty by tilting his head to stop his glasses falling off. Only this morning, having been given directions to an opticians we managed to get the glasses fixed.

… A few minutes late we happen upon a small shoe stall with a sign saying "shoe repairs" I rush over (nearly tripping on my loose sole) and I show him my sandal, he nods and smiles and asks me to take off both sandals. It turns out that the sole on my other sandal is about to come off too. Half an hour later they have been expertly repaired all for the princely sum of £2, he even sticks the sole back on on one of David's shoes into the bargain.

It's our last night in Saigon so we decide to treat ourselves to a slap up meal at The Lost Compass, a fabulous intimate Vetnamese bar hidden on the fourth floor of a private house. The meal was based on Vietnamse food that was eaten during French colonial times when food was scarce and meat a luxury as explained to us by the manager.

Wildlife Spotting #6 Rhino and Gecko at large in Saigon