10-16/02/20

It's 11am and we're sitting in Kuala Lumpur Airport having flown in from Langkawi at 8.15. At 13.30 we'll catch a flight to Krabi in Southern Thailand where we have booked a night's accommodation as our next destination is Koh Lanta, an island in the Andaman Sea 70km from Krabi Town. As Koh Lanta has a bridge connecting it to its sister island to the mainland (meaning ferry use will be minimal) we shall catch a minibus first thing in the morning to take us most of the way. Having weighed up all travel routes we decide that flying and taking a minibus is the most comfortable and safest (see below). The most logical route would have been by ferry from Langkawi to the stunning, but over-developed and expensive island of Koh Lipe, and then from Koh Lipe make our way by speedboat up through Southern Thailand staying on various islands on our way. We'd then fly to Bangkok for our journey home. However, having taken a terrifying three hour speedboat from Lipe to Ko Muk (another Thai island) last year we decided against it. I'm not exaggerating when I say that due to the strong winds whipping up choppy seas we were flung about the speedboat while hanging on for life and were soaked through from the waves crashing onto the deck. It was an absolute nightmare; I'm surprised we survived. If the weather is calm it's OK but as it can be very unpredictable we're not willing to take the risk, especially on long journeys.

Sitting here, typing the blog in the departure lounge in Kuala Lumpur Airport all this somehow feels surreal; David and I have done and seen so much. We've thought nothing of travelling days to reach a final destination. The experiences we've had and the people we've met are priceless. Writing the blog is a commitment, an enjoyable one though. It's great to receive messages from our followers but it's also a record we'll have of our travels. Without this, there would be no way we'd be able to remember or recount all that we've experienced and seen - it goes so fast. To be truthful we haven't been homesick; partly due to receiving messages from our blog readers and home, but also, because it's been such a great experience (so far). As we didn't know what to fully expect, we couldn't be disappointed. Yes, we've had a few long and dusty journey's, a few mishaps, bad guts and one or two places not quite living up to expectation, but that's what it's all about. The thrill of arriving somewhere so remote is very exciting, seeing how people live is an eye opener; sometimes making us realise how lucky we are having been born where we were - sometimes not. To say the people we've met have made a positive impact on this trip is an understatement.

Realizing how difficult and time consuming it is (especially for David who has coordinated it all) is a surprise; you really do need to be focused.

At 13.30 we land at Krabi Airport on time. Once off the plane we are herded into the airport where it's packed with tourists, either queuing for visa-on-arrival or passport control. The staff are very brusque - the complete opposite to the friendly Malay staff in Langkawi Airport. Finally through, we get through and we're about to organise transport to our hotel when we realise we haven't got our rucksacks; with all the mayhem we had simply forgotten to collect them. Explaining this to a member of staff they are very understanding and let us go and collect them from arrivals.

Settling into Seabass Hotel in Krabi Town we're very impressed; it's modern and new, with lovely large rooms and has all the amenities for a comfortable stay. The town has come a long way since we last passed through; the pier has been renovated, small well maintained hotels have sprung up and there's a general feeling that Krabi Town is on the up. Being the starting point to reach the beautiful peninsula where Railey and Phang Nga beaches are situated it has always been just a stop off point; now it has a bit more to offer while still keeping it's Thai identity. (Sara, you would be pleasantly surprised). Heading out for dinner that evening we are not disappointed; fresh red snapper fried in red curry with chilli and kaffir lime leaves - delicious, all served outdoors on plastic plates. It's hard to beat good Thai food.

Having had rather a long day we feel we deserve a foot massage. Seeing a sign for "the best massage in town" we head up a flight of stairs into a funky looking establishment. There's a life-size toy python draped over a sofa, a wooden parrot attached to a pillar and some 1920's jazz playing quietly in the background. Settling into comfy chairs we're asked how we'd like our foot massage; soft, medium or strong. We both say "oh, medium to strong please". Looking up we see our masseurs, (especially David's) are quite strong looking to say the least. I look at David and I know what he's thinking "should have said soft massage". An hour later we have been truly pummeled; initially by having our thighs and calves knelt on while they pressed deeply to find the right pressure points. At certain times we had to ask them to ease off as we feared we might leave with a broken leg at the very least. All in all it was a good strong massage - "no pain no gain" as they say?

Up early the following morning, we head off for a local brekkie of banana and egg roti with strong Thai coffee; the atmosphere is so lively with customers ordering all sorts of dishes, and the staff are welcoming. Our minivan pick-up is at 10am; it should take three hours to reach Koh Lanta. Two and a half hours later after a very pleasant journey we arrive at The Sun Long Beach Resort; we shall be staying here for the next six nights. It's a set of four newly opened well appointed modern bungalows with nice wide verandahs (hardly a resort; just how we like it). They are set in a quiet spot between Long Beach and the main road that runs around the island in thick vegetation. However, they are quite close to a small mosque so we expect to be early risers! Having checked in we head to the beach; we're not disappointed; beautiful golden sand lapped by emerald green water greets us. The beach is long with only a few low key resorts set well behind the trees making them hard to spot. This gives the illusion of an almost deserted beach; even though it's the second busiest of all the island. Having a swim is bliss, the water is so clear and calm, it's definitely the best swimming beach we've encountered so far on this trip. We decide not to go on any island trips, as, although some of them look amazing we know from experience the islands will be crowded with other tours, thus spoiling that `lost in paradise feeling". There are one or two I'd have loved to have visited with David that I visited more than twenty years ago when you'd arrive at an island and be the only boat in sight. Also, most of the trips use speedboats now - say no more. Instead, we shall rent a scooter for a few days and explore the island and it's secluded beaches. Heading by scooter a few days later we are pleasantly surprised at how underdeveloped the island is for its size. There is one good main road around the island with a few branching off to beaches, and the interior is jungle clad mountains. The further south you go the less populated it is and the beaches have almost white sand. The island's population is 90% muslim whom are decended from Sea Gypsies of Indo-Malay origin that settled on the island five hundred years ago. They are darker in complexion, some stocky in build and tend to have beautiful wavy hair: unlike the typical Thai's we think of with lighter skin, small frames and dead straight hair.

Having less than three weeks left on our travels we are winding down; it's relaxing on beaches, eating good food and having a couple of beers.

On our last day on the island we receive a text from our hosts saying they would like to cook dinner for us and that evening and deliver it to our bungalow as it's our last night and as a thank you for supporting their new business (it opened two months ago). We text back our acceptance. At 7pm a tray arrives with two beautifully presented phad thai dishes served in banana leaves; they taste delicious, we have to laugh though, as they were bought from the restaurant next door (we had the exact same dish served in banana leaves for lunch). It's the thought that counts?

We are heading off to Koh Jum, also called Koh Pu, "an island time forgot" tomorrow morning by ferry. It is our last stop before we Bangkok and our flight home.

Wildlife Spotting#? A five foot monitor lizard crashing it's way through some vegetation 5m from us and 100m from our accomodation - scary! Lots of brightly coloured birds and a few sea eagles.