10-13/01/20

Up early this morning as we're off to Luang Prabang in Laos, via Hanoi which means two flights nearly 2,500km and an hours' stop-over. Luckily our internal alarm clock kicks-in as the requested 5am wake-up call never happens?

Talking with the check-in girl at Saigon Airport we are not sure if we'll be allowed to board the plane; apparently we don't have enough onward concrete plans and hotel and flight bookings/reservations. Eventually, we persuade her that we shall be returning to Europe in a few months time so she checks us in but warns us we may have problems at Laos immigration. We change our remaining Vietnamese currency in to Laos Kip and US dollars (dollars as they have less than £2.00 in Kip) at the bureau de change and then board our flight.

Good news no smell on the flight Whoopee! Landing at Luang Prabang Airport in late afternoon we are amazed that our plane is the only one on the landing strip, it's dead. I rush to the loo as soon as we land and I'm greeted by squat toilets; that's how provincial the airport is. Visas are given on arrival so we queue up and await our turn. On seeing the fee displayed on a notice board we are relieved we have dollars as this is the only acceptable currency. Phew, we have just enough to cover the visas and transport to our guesthouse. Half an hour later visas in hand (and no questions about our onward travels!!!) we are not sure how we're going to pay for our ride to the guest house as we were charged (some would say bribed) an extra $2 for our photos to be taken(scanned from passport); a visa requirement meaning we have $4 left, the ride is $5! I suddenly have a light bulb moment; when visiting in 2014 I remember they use three currencies here, kip, Thai baht and US dollars. We have loads of baht left from last year's holiday!!!! Using our phones to convert baht to kip we buy a ride to our guesthouse. We're only here for one night as Nong Khiaw, a small remote town set on the banks of the Nam Ou river is our next destination. It's 140km from Luang Prabang and is set amidst stunning limestone mountains.

Early the following morning we set off to Nong Khiaw and arrive four hours later after a hair raising journey. Although we have been to Laos before we are still shocked at the poverty. Although they have enough to eat the majority of them live in old wooden shacks built on dirt roads or in remote villages. One thing we have noticed is that change is happening. A chinese energy company has built a huge dam and a number of villages are now underwater with just a few roofs showing - progress? I guess it helps with water supply and electric but there seems to be a lot of resentment about this decision probably made by the governing class far far away. There is also a railway line to link China with the ports in either Thailand or Cambodia again can't see how that will help the locals. It seems like China is taking over by stealth and they certainly travel in large groups and act noisily and are quite rude.

Rant over: Our home for the next two nights is a guesthouse floating on the Nam Ou River made up of only six rooms, all with breathtaking views. The accommodation is fairly basic, however, it is still one of the best places we have stayed. Why you ask? "If a picture paints a thousand words…." as Kojak sang. AMAZING!!!!

The following morning we decide to hike to one of the viewpoints perched high up on the mountains around the town. We were convinced after having seen some spectacular photos from a couple who had just returned and we both thought we must give it a try - five minutes later we set off. Taking advice from the locals we stay on the dirt track as there are some unexploded bombs that were dropped during the Vietnam War when the Americans bombed the Ho Chi Minh Rail Trail. An hour and a half later drenched in sweat but 800ft higher we get our first opportunity to take in the breathtaking 360 degree view. The climb was steep and on rough terrain and a little scary at times but it was so worth it. David being a lot more nimble than I found it easier to climb, however, he found it pretty tough going. Making our decent (me with very shaky legs) I feel as if we've just climbed our own Mt Everest as we were above the clouds. Once back at the guesthouse I admit that thoughts of snakes and even tigers (I know they are practically extinct) went through my mind whilst climbing; it's funny how the mind works.? Speaking to Ying one of the locals later that evening I ask what sort of wildlife live in the mountains? Thinking he'd say various types of venomous snakes and spiders I am rather disappointed when I'm told only rats and the odd small harmless snakes. However, he did mention that the locals also hunt the rats to cook and sell in the town market so we asked for a suitable restaurant recommendation!

It's our last morning, and as we head off to the bus station we feel quite sad to be leaving such a beautiful place. However, Luang Prabang awaits us; a UNESCO World Heritage City that is beautiful. Famous for its glittering temples and monasteries and saffron robed monks that walk serenely from one temple to another.

Wildlife Spotting#8 a tiny shrew not a tiger while climbing to the viewpoint