Fort Kochi

Having endured the worst check-in queuing system ever devised by man we had to hurry to the gate to catch our early morning flight to Kochi in South India. It felt good to by leaving the mayhem of North India behind. We had seen fabulous things, met lovely people, enjoyed wonderful food and hospitality but we were happy to leave the constant noise, pollution and chaos behind.

South India is very different. The sea breeze in Kochi keeps the air fresh, the wetter climate keeps the dust down and there are no cows or packs of dogs to foul the streets. It makes such a difference not having to be constantly checking where you are going to step. The weather is warm and the vegetation is lush and the living is easy.

Fort Kochi is the first European settlement in India. Vasco da Gamma established a garrison here in 1503 after backing the winning side in a local dispute. Years later, on his next visit in 1528, he died here too. We visited his original grave where he was interred for 17 years before being returned to Lisbon for a more fitting tomb.

First impressions are that the south is much more prosperous than the north. There are very few beggars, the streets are clean, the housing looks mostly modern, the traffic is much lighter and drivers don't feel the need to be constantly leaning on their horns. It feels noticeable calmer, more laid back. The men wear long skirts which can be folded up quickly to a short skirt if they need to move quickly.

We caught a train this morning and the station was pristine - a different world indeed.

Three of our north group have transferred to the south with us - Jane and Moragh from London and Lee from Idaho. We met our new travelling companions on Sunday night - 2 Canadians, a Swiss, 2 Welsh, a Londoner 2 from Peterhead and their daughter and partner from Nairn. Turns out we know quite a few people in common with the Nairn and Peterhead couples. Susan's former colleague, Jenny, was their former neighbour and Jenny's husband Derick was once a flatmate with the daughter. Small world. Our new CEO is Sajin, Saj for short, he isn't as handsome as Jai so the girls aren't swooning and hanging on his every word but he seems to be more organised, more informative.

Our first day started with a walk around Fort Kochi to have a look at the Portuguese churches , fish market and of course the famous Chinese nets which seem to be particular to Kochi. There are only 30 of them left in operation. An enormous counterbalance lever lowers a net to the sea bed. Leave it for a little while to allow the fish to return, then pull on ropes to lift the net and catch your fish. We had a go and caught a dozen or so small fish.

A medium fast Tuk Tuk ride into Kochi to visit a palace museum, Jew Town and the oldest synagogue in the British Commonwealth. In the evening we enjoyed a demonstration of Kalikathi which is the traditional dance and theatre form of Kerela. Most of the meaning is conveyed by small hand, eye and facial movements. The story danced for us was that ancient tale of love and violence. Boy meets girl, boy fancies girl, girl fancies boy, girl turns into demon, boy kills girl. Boy lives happily ever after.

I think we are going to like south India.