At around 6am the train rolled into New Delhi train station. Bleary-eyed and long after the well practised locals, we got ourselves and our stuff together, bid goodbye to our fellow tourists and started the long walk to our hotel. At that time Main Bazaar was relatively quiet although we were still thrust the odd hotel business card and hassled for rickshaw rides. In contrast with other hotels our room was not ready and we had to register before we could...

We gathered up our stuff and avoided the touts (fewer than I imagined!) as we waited outside the station for our pick up. Eventually a flustered looking man asked if I was Monica, I said no but that I was waiting for a pick up too. He wandered off and then returned a few minutes later flashing his hotel card and asking if I was 'Kristy'? - This seems to be my adopted name in India so I said yes. He was still looking flustered and asked us to wait while he tried t...

The rest of the journey was fairly uneventful, the "highlight" being passing the airport as we arrived at the terminus station, Old Delhi. This was a surprise to us as we thought we were arriving in New Delhi. Ignoring the autorickshaw drivers at the station quoting exorbitant rates we agreed a price with a passing rickshaw and got dropped off at Paharganj, the backpacker area near New Delhi train station. Having been told some scary stories about the t...

We got our bags and made our way to the exit. I was surprised because rather than the usual 'you want tuk-tuk' palaver there were simply men holding up placards with their hotels name on it. It was all very civilised! Eventually I saw my name on a placard and we were taken to a waiting jeep. The driver left us there for 10 minutes or so while he waited at the exit trying to scout for more custom. No one took him up on his offer so returning to the jeep he drove...

Grabbing a rickshaw we headed for our hostel which we had been in contact with over the internet only to be told there were no rooms. In order to appease us the manager fixed us up with a room at another hostel down the road, a room with little atmosphere. We had agreed with the first hostel that they would settle the cost of the rickshaw but when at the second place we discovered the driver was waiting for payment from us, we took him back to the first hos...