It was a fairly uneventful journey for me as I had my head in my book but we did stop for lunch at Kompong Thom. We rushed to eat some delicious rice and vegetables with only 30 minutes' break. We also went in a shop which had a hammock tied up at the back and a baby asleep in it - so cute!

We soon arrived in Siem Reap and as promised our tuk-tuk driver was waiting with the sign 'Mr Neil and Mrs Kirsty' - funny! We sped the 10 minutes into town to look at some hostels. The first hostel he took us to only had air-con rooms, so unwilling to pay the $15 dollars a night, he took us somewhere else. This time we saw a fan room which we were fairly happy with so we took it, and after explaining we would be staying for 4 nights we were given a discount. A very nice gesture I thought at the time.

Before the tuk-tuk driver left we arranged for him to come back the next morning ready for some Angkor exploration - we couldn't tell him where we wanted to go as we didn't know ourselves yet! We spent some time in the room researching Angkor and created a route for tomorrow. After this we went for a walk, our hostel is in a great location near to the main area, so we took advantage of this having a look around the night and local market before settling on Mexican for tea. We talked about how we don't always eat local food, but reasoned that we don't eat fish and chips at home every day; this is a lifestyle not a holiday and that makes a huge difference to what you eat!

I tried some short trousers on and decided to buy them - $5! We then went back to the hostel and swapped our books at the book exchange. There are a lot less book exchanges than we thought and we have had to buy some books - not good news for avid readers like Neil and I.

I am a little bit homesick today and am slightly ashamed to say I am missing the things that I thought defined me - shoes, earrings, and scarves - just stuff which actually I now realise doesn't define me at all. I think I am just a little bored of living out of a bag, wearing the same things and I am sure the feeling will pass. I don't feel like I want to go home, which is good, but just that I need a boost.

We met our new tuk-tuk driver at 10am (no idea why the first one didn't want our custom??) and discussed what we would like to see and do over our two days at Angkor. He was very knowledgeable about the sights and we settled on a route together. He quoted us a rate for each day, and we were a bit unsure as to whether we were being ripped off or not, but once we saw how far away the temples were from the town we were happy - especially as he would be with us all day.

As we got to the first temple we walked up the path towards it and a local band was playing. They had a sign in front of them stating they were all victims of landmines left over from the Khmer Rouge period but that they did not want to beg so they played instead - please donate. I left some money and took a photo. Unfortunately they were not the only band of the day in the same position and I struggled not to donate to each and every one. One of the hard things about travelling is realising you can't help everyone and that all you can do is your bit. I felt happy I had done this so tried not to feel guilty.

The temples themselves were vast stunning beautiful buildings and it was surprising they had gone unnoticed for so long. Some were in a better state of repair than others and some were currently under restoration processes. The only thing that may have detracted from the sights of the temples were the hoards of hawkers trying to sell everything and anything! We knew that there would be some of this, especially as the people who lived there were now forbidden to farm on the land so have to make a living another way, but I didn't expect as many. I was completely shocked with the number of them and the sheer desperation for you to buy something - I think this was made more noticeable because it was low season and there were not as many tourists. One of the temples in particular was overrun with children trying to sell all different things. Some had postcards and they showed you every single one naming each postcard. Others counted to 10 in lots of different languages (Neil enjoyed dancing to the tune they made while they just looked at him like the mad Englishman he is!). Others simply coyly smiled at you. It was heartbreaking to be around and also pulled your attention away from the temples which was a shame.

It was blisteringly hot again so our tuk-tuk driver took us for lunch at a restaurant near a temple. It was delicious and filling, if a little over priced with the usual 'tourist tax'. This was another time when the hawkers surrounded us and placed themselves at our table. We promised them all (some women and again some children!) that we would look in their shops after our lunch and thankfully they let us eat in peace. After lunch as promised we looked in their shops; Neil purchased some cool trousers and I got a lovely scarf with Angkor embroidered on it.

We visited two more temples after lunch bumping into Becki and Stu (a couple from our Trans Mongolian Tour) at one. This was a hilarious scene where Neil and I had clocked Stu but he was so shocked to see us, doing a double take and then shouting "Becki! Becki! It's Kirsty and Neil!" This really made us giggle! We made a plan to meet for a drink later and went our separate ways.

The temples were such an impressive sight, we had planned to stay for sunset, but after a long HOT day and knowing we would be up early the next day we decided to head back to the hostel for a rest. It was nice to be driven back in the tuk-tuk as it really cools you down!

We went out for dinner, met Becki, Stu and a couple they knew from home ( Kate and Ant who were also on honeymoon - albeit only for 2 weeks!) for a few 35 cent beers before going back for a fairly early night knowing we had to be up at 4am for sunrise at Angkor Wat.

The temples were a beautiful and religious sight - I couldn't believe how big the whole complex was. I think I was fooled into thinking it was just Angkor and knew nothing much of any of the others. We did the big circle today visiting Preah Khan, Preah Nean Pean, Ta Som and Pre Rup.

We were up before the sun, showered and ready for our 5am pick up. As we headed to Angkor Wat in the tuk-tuk I was surprisingly cold. It was a great feeling after weeks of being too hot to breathe!

When we got to Angkor Wat we decided to head to the opposite side of the temples to the hoards of people already waiting for sunrise. I am assuming that this is where they had been told to sit for the best view. We didn't care! Having never seen it before we knew any view was going to be spectacular so went to the other side which was almost deserted, finding a step to sit on to cuddle up and watch the sunrise. We also thought of Big Grandma Margaret who celebrates her 90th Birthday today - Happy Birthday :o) xxx

As the sun rose we watched it in awe - it was breathtaking! We took a few photos and laughed as we watched the other revellers running around trying to snap the best picture. Sometimes it's better to put the camera down and really take something in with your eyes rather than through a camera lens. Watching the sun come up was brilliant - the different light thrown over the temples with each millimetre the sun rose was so nice to see. A sight neither of us will forget in a hurry. We would like to take this opportunity to thank Aunt Margaret and Uncle Jack for their kind contribution to our visit to the temples.

Once the sun was firmly in the sky we wandered around the temples which are still an active place of worship. There were lots of monks in orange and some in white (I have no idea why they have different colours and even my trusty friend Google couldn't explain!) praying and chanting. The sun had brought the heat with it and it was already scorching - I have no idea how the monks wear what they do being so wrapped up!

We slowly walked around the world's largest religious structure, not really believing that we were here. It was a beautiful place, and the sunrise was stunning, but it didn't mesmerise me like I thought it would. After some more looking around, clambering up and down stairs and soaking the whole sight up our tuk-tuk driver took us for some breakfast. Again this was delicious but the tourist tax was paid again.

We were already inside the fortified City of Angkor Thom so the tuk-tuk driver took us to the Bayon to continue with our day. This was bizarrely beautiful covered in faces at all angles facing all directions. It was a high structure which we climbed up and down to make the most of the views. We took in a few more temples and terraces climbing up and down more stupidly steep staircases. By midday we were hot, bothered and tired so we took our last look at the temples and said goodbye to Angkor. Today we visited - Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Baphuon, Terrace of Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King.

Back at the hostel we had a lovely afternoon nap, making up for the lost hours this morning before getting up and getting ready for dinner. I enjoyed a lovely Cambodian chicken curry which was amazing, and Neil had some traditional Lok Lak. At the restaurant where we ate there was a little boy of about 18 months who lived there, the cutest little boy ever seen, who stands outside the restaurant - I am sure it's why people eat there! He wanders around the restaurant and outside on the street, all the neighbours look out for him, and it feels nice that he can do so, safe and family orientated.

After dinner we met up with Becki, Stu, Kate and Ant again for a few drinks and enjoyed watching them go through the torment of having their feet nibbled by the fish! We then called it a night and headed to bed after an early start and a huge day we felt we needed a good sleep!

We woke up late the following morning as we had planned a chilled out day. We eventually got ready and went for breakfast down Bar Street which was deserted but found a lovely place for a Western breakfast. We spent some time relaxing here, reading about Laos and chatting before wandering towards the central market. As soon as we got there and started walking around the stalls we were bombarded with the usual sales tactics 'lady, come buy from my shop!', 'Mr, I give you good price!', and 'I give you good luck!'. In the end we purchased a T-shirt for Neil and a stuffed Gecko for our Cambodia keepsake both at bargain prices.

After this we walked around Siem Reap some more, along the river and into the supermarket where we bought some goodies for tomorrow's air journey before returning to the hostel. We did some more reading about Laos and I caught up on my journal before relaxing for a while. Neil and I are both getting a little weary and in need of a break - we know we only have to hold out a few weeks longer before the beaches of Thailand!

A little later we got ready and went out for food to the same place we'd gotten breakfast from as we had spied a delicious looking food platter we wanted to try. As soon as it arrived we knew we had made the right choice - it was as great-tasting as the picture made out! After dinner we looked around some of the night markets where I bought a bracelet from a disabled man, and a bag from a lovely lady on a stall.

After Neil had bought a banana and chocolate pancake we went back to the room and were confronted by another huge creepy in the bathroom! These are huge brown cockroach type bugs that have plagued this room! They are horrible things and look so scary!

After a horrible night's sleep due to me being petrified of the bugs and needing to sleep with the light on, we were relieved to be showering and leaving. We had some breakfast at the hostel before our tuk-tuk man turned up to take us to the airport. We got in the tuk-tuk and after 10 minutes (not the 40 we were told it would take) we arrived at the small airport. It was $8 but we only had $10 - the tuk-tuk man had no change (surprise surprise) and this whole thing's left a little bitter taste in our mouths about him, which was sad after he did such a good job with the whole Angkor experience.

We were rather early so hung around for a while before checking in, going through passport control and then spending the last of our cash on some food before boarding. As we went to board the plane, I saw a tiny plane waiting for us - the engines had the propellers outside! I have never been on a plane so small, and not being a confident flyer anyway, I was slightly scared! We got on the plane, which only had about another 12 passengers, and we were off. The take-off was fine and after this I finally breathed again! As we took off I looked out of the window and was nicely surprised to see the Angkor temples from the sky - Awesome! Another nice surprise was the free lunch we were served during the flight!

It felt like we had only just taken off when it was time to land - looking out of the window I noticed the change in the scenery, Laos is mountainous and green compared with the sandy flatness of Cambodia. It was beautiful. We landed with no problems and once off the plane headed into the airport building.

I have enjoyed being in Cambodia and enjoyed what we have done while we have been here but I am not sure I would come back. It hasn't been my favourite place.

We are having lots of fun, laughing lots, shouting sometimes but always sticking together. Life is good :o) Keep smiling everyone! Love and miss you millions xxxxxx