I have not been sleeping well at all in Kashmir. The people in the room next to me and on my floor have their TV's on loud until 1 or 2am each morning. They shout to each other across the hallways. I could hear the guy snoring in the room next to mine and his cellphones ringing unanswered. This hotel is a 4 star and is less than 1.5 years old. Staff are great but give this hotel a miss if you are ever in Kashmir. On the last day, we go for a Shikara (boat) ride ...

I left my suitcase at the hotel in Gurgaon and took 2 backpacks onto the plane to Kashmir. I had to check one in because it had liquids, although it only weighed 3kg. Arriving in Kashmir airport, as the plane taxis down the runway you notice the military colors on the structures on the airport property. You have to fill in an "immigration" form at the airport. Driving through Kashmir I am amazed at the amount of Indian military presence. There are trucks and bus...