Tuesday 3rd October 2017

Corfu, Greece

Excursion: "The Best of Corfu"

Forecast: Clear skies,

Max 23°

We arrived in port early, 7:30am (having turned our clocks forward one hour before retiring in line with Greece DLS).

Our guide was Anastasia, a beautiful Greek woman in her early 30's. She welcomed us as we settled in our seats on the coach, Phil and I endeavoured to get as close to the front of the coach as possible. This time we did have on our wrist-bands hoping to avoid any motion illness knowing the visitations involved winding roads.

We embarked on a scenic drive to Paleokastritsa village, regarded by many as the most attractive area in the Mediterranean. You cannot fail to be impressed by these six small coves with incredible turquoise water, nestling in a coastline of hills, draped in olive and lemon trees.

Just a short drive to our first stop, perched on the cliff was The Virgin Mary Monastery, the 19th century complex offering unrivalled views of the area and sea.

This monastery now is home to only ten monks, shared with dozens of cats (Monks love cats apparently), they were everywhere, all colours. The property is surrounded by lovely shaded gardens and courtyards inviting quiet reflection. The aroma of basil hit you as you walked past the gardens and nestled amongst the basill were many cats. I didn't know cat liked basil, so when I return home I am going to try to plant lots of basil in our gardens for Olly and see if he finds it "restful".

There was a cafe close by where we enjoyed Greek style macchiato and so were able to use their bathrooms, rather than the more public where fee was charged and queues were long!

This monastery from the outside, looked like a "house". There were no ornaments of any kind, no cross, a flat roof (no steeple, no bells). This is deliberate. In it's past, when pirates were always a threat, the monasteries were targets for their valuable treasures inside. So to protect them, they built there monasteries to look like houses from outside.

Inside, it was a beautiful, old, monastery, this one dedicated to their blessed Mary. It was a delight to visit.

Our next stop was designated as "brunch stop" at the little village of Kinopiastes and the coach was parked at the outside of the village so we wandered through steep, narrow streets of this "old" village. The architecture here was more venetian, double storey, shuttered windows but almost all in need of repair. Very old cars, at least 15-20 years, all showing panel damage were parked precariously as best they could so as not to totally block the passage of other vehicles.

The local tavern were lunch would be served, bore no resemblance from the exterior of the building, except our guide knew exactly where we were going. There in very small lettering, desperately in need of fresh paint, was "Traverna" (translated tavern).

Our guide told us that just after WWII, many important visitors came to this quaint village, and this tavern in particular and their photos could be found on the walls of this Traverna, namely, Joan Fonda, Anthony Quinn and Francois Mitterrand, to name a few!!! Apparently, in it's time, it was the place to be seen!!

As we entered it opened onto a large "living room", and every conceivable wall space hung photos of those who had visited. I decided to take Anastasia's word that those mentioned did in fact have their photos hanging somewhere!

Passing through this room, it opened onto a very large covered terrace. Already set for our arrival and many others besides. Tables of eight we set with cutlery, bottles of water, glasses, two bottles of red wine per table (their own brew, and it tasted it, no label). I was grateful for the bottle of water to wash away their wine!

Our group probably took up five tables and shortly after our arrival more groups arrived. Two local musicians were already strutting, one with guitar, one with mandolin and the guitarist did the vocals. Beautiful baritone voice, singing obviously Greek songs, although I did recognise one tune "It's Now or Never" sung in Greek.

The food was delivered to our tables by three Greek men, obviously the owner and his sons. First, baskets of fresh bread, then plates of cold meat (mild salami), tomato and feta chesse, plates fresh Greek salad, plates of yoghurt with cucumber and garlic, then followed by hot (in temperature not spices) sausage and baked potatoes, diced. All food was sufficient for four, so two lots everything were delivered per tables. All so efficiently and pleasantly served.

We really thought that was it, and would have left the table sufficiently fed, when out comes two large platters per table of spaghetti and meat. The beef must have been cooking over night as it just fell apart when you put your fork in it. It was fantastic, full of flavour. Then plates of sweet yoghurt, drizzling with honey and plates of fresh fruits, pears, peaches and apples.

During lunch, three local young people danced traditional Greek dances, dressed in traditional costumes. Four changes of clothes, before inviting us "tourists" to join them in the traditional version of Zorba the Greek. Lots of fun.

So good, what wonderful hospitality and generosity.

After lunch we continued on to the village of Gastouri and a visit to the Achilleion Palace, the purposely built residence of Empress Elizabeth of Austria who visited Corfu, fell in love with it and had this palace build for her. It was also the setting for James Bond's "For Your Eyes Only".

We were allowed inside to some rooms on the lower floor. Very little of the origin furniture remains because after Elizabeth's tragic death, it remained empty for several years. Then bought by Kaiser Willem of Germany and later when island was under French rule, occupied by aristocrats whereupon they allowed rich property owners to buy furniture and fittings at small amounts of money. The palace now is controlled by National Trust, however, Anastasia and others widely believe that many homes in Corfu still have furniture belonging to the palace from the time of Empress Elizabeth.

Our last stop was visit to Corfu Town. Walking through the old town was visitation to St.Spyridon Church, were in a small chapel we saw glistening silver coffin of the island's patron saint.

We left the group for a more relaxing stop in the square. Beautiful venetian architecture in the buildings here, lots of outdoor coffee shops, with shade provided by huge oak trees. We made friends with a local 25 year old girl, grateful to be working, and not sure what her future holds.

She explained the effects of GFC on Greece and although we were aware of the difficulties, she did shed light on just how life for Greek people has changed.

Retirees, or folks that had worked all their lives and now should be enjoying retirement, could only collect pensions of €180-€200/per month, making life very difficult. Their children with young children were now required to support their parents. Unemployment for 17-24 year olds was running at 54% and young people wishing to go to university were forced to go overseas to do so. With no guarantee of working when their studies were finished, most did not return.

This means there will be a lost 'generation', until the economic situation picks up.Very sad for Greece. Tourism now is vital for the immediate survival of Greece.

Many families left Greece nine years ago, to place, like, Canada, US, South Africa and Australia.

Anastasia told us that before GFC, guides like herself, would work the tourist season (May-November) and then take three months off. Now, because of reduced wages, they cannot afford to do that, they must work in some other industry for those three months.

We were back on board around 3:30pm, very tired.

Tonight's attire is Informal.