First night aboard the MS River Rhapsody was nice. Lots of room in our cabin, but the beds are a bit hard and with a duvet, a little too warm, but our steward will see to it tonight.

This is a tidal river, the Schelde, so when we boarded the boat last night, it was moored very low to the pier. In fact, when we came aboard, we entered from the top-most deck, the sun deck on the fifth level. We have a large window in our cabin, but all we could see was the block wall of the pier. However, when we awoke, the boat had risen so that even those of us on the 3rd floor could look out our windows to see it hadn't rained at all!

After our breakfast buffet, we had a meeting with our tour guides to be outfitted with audio gear, so that whenever we are out walking with a group, we can easily hear the guide's commentary. Thus, fully equipped, off we went to see Antwerp.

We walked along the quay beside the flood wall, a protection for the city from the river. There are stiles to cross the wall, and openings for cars, but these have flood gates to close, if indeed there is a flood. We saw the 13th century castle at the river's edge with its broken wall, of which pieces can be seen further into town. In front of the castle was a statue of Long John (photo), or as we say, the Boogey Man. Legend tells that two drunks left a bar in high spirits, but as they were walking along, they felt the presence of a man behind them. This presence seemed to grow larger and larger and they became afraid. Ducking into the nearest bar, they relayed their story, and Long John grew even further.

We saw the Butcher's Guild, the most expensive guild house, because of its colorful brick - layered red and white, like bacon - and cathedral windows. We walked up Bloody Lane, where the blood of slaughtered animals used to run into the river. We admired the Cathedral of Our Lady to which Rubens contributed much of his talents, and then saw his statue in the town square. We admired the fountain in the town square, even with its gruesome past.

As told to us, a tax was levied on boats bringing goods into Antwerp in olden days. If a person did not pay the tax, his hand was cut off (you could only do this twice of course!) and thrown in the river. 'An' sounds like hand in Flemish, and 'Twerp' is to throw. Thus, 'Antwerp'. There is even a chocolate here, made into hands (like the noses in Ghent). The fountain is beautiful, but at the top is a young man tossing a hand out, and at the bottom of the sculpture a figure lies with just a stump. (See the Photos section for more, coming soon...it takes forever to upload.)

Darrel and I walked by ourselves back to the ship to try to figure out the WiFi. Spent a delightful hour in the lounge with a glass of Flemish beer and our laptop. Then to lunch on board, where we were served some nice pea soup, a filet of hake fish and baba au rhum for dessert, with such a beautiful presentation, it was a shame to disturb it! Fortunately, we have told our server to put us on half rations.

After lunch, Duval Chocolaterie demonstrated the art of chocolate, and yes, we got samples! There was some interesting information, like the difference between white chocolate (has no cocoa powder, just cocoa butter) and dark chocolate (which has both) and milk chocolate (which of course has added milk). In a few moments, we will attend a discussion on the European Union. Then this evening, the Captain's Dinner. We set sail at 5:30 today, and I want to be starboard side when we shove off!

SURPRISE! We had our emergency drill, just as I was dressing for the Captain's Welcome Drink (champagne) and dashed out to my meeting area with my life jacket & poncho (which is so big, I could use it as a tent). We all survived the drill and now for that glass of champagne!

TOMORROW: the Netherlands, its Delta Works and windmills.