NAGORNO KARABAKH: HAUNTED BY HISTORY These pictures were taken by a freelance photo-journalist I met in Shushi. They document the desperate conditions in the country, but also the hope, that is essential to the spirit of Karabach. Password: 'magazine'. http://corougemagali.photoshelter.com/gallery/NKR-2007-2010/G0000CV4fx02y90k These are my own pictures: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2087925&id=1060887215 Nagorno Karabakh, which ro...

Yerevan: In the Shadow of Ararat Having spent nearly two months in the Caucasus, and having seen both sides of the traveling spectrum, from Georgia - where I was treated to hearty meals, fantastic wines and a warm welcome, to Azerbaijan, where I was threatened with deportation and can honestly say I felt more grateful on leaving than anywhere I have ever been, it was now time for me to complete the Caucasus jigsaw (at least the part which westerners can go...

In the shadow of the fabled Mount Ararat, Yerevan stands at a crossroads between Asian and European civilization, and for centuries has been a battleground between Christians and Muslims. Armenia was once a vast empire stretching from the Black Sea to the Caspian, but now it's a slice of land not much bigger than Belgium, hemmed in by Turkey, Georgia and Azerbaijan, its sworn enemy. Under the yoke of Soviet control for seventy years, it stumbled through one cri...