Today is Sunday and one of our most anticipated days of the entire Silk Road trip; it's livestock market day in Kashgar! Villagers from near and far come to find a goat, sheep, donkey, cow, horse or camel at a bargain price but the market doesn't get into full flow until reasonably late in the morning so first we headed to the Tomb of Apak Hoja, located at Ezret Village some 3 miles northeast of the city.. The tomb was built in 1640 and houses the tomb of Apak Hoja and his family members; Apak Hoja was the king of the Hoja State of Kashgar. It is the largest Islamic mausoleum in China and comprises gate towers, large and small mosques, scripture halls and main tomb chambers.High trees also surround the tomb, providing it with a quiet and beautiful environment, that is of course except for the swathes of tourists.eager to look inside.

The tomb is actually a refreshing change from the plethora of Islamic architecture that we have previously seen and the tombs are decorated in brightly coloured silk coverings. Apak Hoja's tomb is the largest and takes the prominent position on the highest plinth at the back. Covered in an intricate green funeral cloth, it contrasts dramatically with the numerous smaller, yellow covered shrines of the female family members. Also interred is Ikparhan, his granddaughter, known as Xiang Fe (Fragrant Concubine) who led the Uighurs in revolt, was defeated and ended up Emperor Qianlong's concubine. We really wanted to take pictures in here as the contrast really is quite beautiful and the sight is unlike anything else we have seen in the Muslim world.

A brief glimpse of the graveyard on the outside of the garden wall was followed as we exited the tomb complex by a walk past only (closed for renovation) of the Jermon Hall, the oldest building used by Apak Hoja and his father to teach doctrines. In the centre of the indoor hall is a stone that is said to be able to kill disease and the devil, and thus it was constantly touched by visitors of old to keep themselves safe.

The Hall led to the Juma Mosque, a wonderfully constructed structure built in 1873 consisting of a hall, 100m log corridor and 62 uniquely crafted and designed wooden supporting pillars. Many experts believe the pillars to be the embodiment of Uighur wood smith culture and they attract many worshippers during religious festivals. We bumped into the two gentlemen from the lake yesterday, exchanged quick pleasantries and continued on our way. We hugged a tree on the way out as it is said to ensure good health when touched so we were giving it everything.

Livestock Market, Bazaar, Old City and Mosque to follow.