We went to the Pearl Market this morning and were not as impressed with it as the Silk Market but we did find Maria a watch, something she'd been looking for for ages.It came complete with a new battery and cost a whopping 25RMB (£2.50).Everywhere we turned, men with cases of watches asked us if we wanted to buy a Rolex.'I have a watch thank you', I said, pointing to my aging Diesel with the crumbling strap.We got written instructions from some lovely ladies selling pearls then went outside to find a meter taxi for the trip across town.

We settled again on 30RMB as the taxis here never want to take tourists on the meter.A for-hire taxi pulls up, you tell them where you want to go using the meter and all of a sudden the taxi is off-hire, just like that!So the drivers just sit there waiting without a fare, not wanting to take locals at the legal metered rate and not wanting to take tourists who want to pay a fair price!!

We made it, eventually, to the Silk Market, stopped in a lovely little cafe for lunch, then braved the throng of tourists and stalls.Before heading into the Silk Market proper, however, we had a look at the stalls lining the underpass and were pleased to find a Le Sportsac bag to replace the cheap Kipling we bought in Xian and I got three tops to replace the heavy cotton I'd been lugging around since leaving London.

We managed to find some 'shops' that we missed yesterday, came across some beautiful silk table runners and pillow cushions (we'll buy some when we return next month) and I was interested to look at the hand-made suits and shirts 'section' on the top floor.They can allegedly make a top quality dinner jacket for 1200RMB (£120) and shirts come in at a mere 100RMB (£10).Maria and I discussed the merits of buying something now but we left feeling a little indecisive.

We watched amusedly as tourist after tourist got accosted, some being literally manhandled into the stalls by the young women eager for an income.Maria figured out that the best way to shut them up was to just stare fixedly at them.It worked but I think she scared them into submission.I came up with the clever strategy of answering 'the exit' whenever I was asked what I was looking for; they didn't know where to look or what to say!

We gave up trying to get a taxi home as none of them would even consider taking a tourist at a fair price so we braved the subway instead.After some initial confusion we sussed it out okay and were squeezed in tighter than toothpaste in its tube for the whole journey back to Oriental Plaza.We've vowed not to use any more taxis, unless absolutely essential, in which case I've promised I'll take the camera and photograph their license when they refuse to use the meter.We'll use the tube instead.

We wandered around the Plaza, soaking up the night sights, avoiding the hawkers pretending to be students who want to practice their English, who will then drag you to the most expensive places in town, and found the most luxurious looking Pizza Hut we've ever encountered!Maria ordered a Super Supreme with no pork, beef or onion and the order was confirmed by two separate waitresses.Twenty minutes later the pizza arrived, topped with pork, so Maria sent it back only for it to return too quickly with the pork obviously picked off by one of the kitchen staff.Clearly not satisfied with the poor customer service, and meat tainted pizza, the staff were instructed to make a fresh pizza with no beef, pork or onion!After another overly long wait the fresh pizza arrived...with onion!We only paid for my pizza!