Taupo to Wellington Via (Kirwhakapa, Masterton, kaitoke Regional Park and Turakirae Head)
30th March to 3rd April

After leaving Lake Taupo we were set for a long drive. The road was thankfully mainly straight, well for the first 100km but the rest was full of twists and turns however the views we encountered were amazing. In front of us, and our destination, were the mountains of the Tongaririo national Park including Mt Ngauruhoe, aka Mt Doom from Lord of the Rings. It stood our perfectly on the horizon, a perfectly formed volcano amazingly symmetrical down all sides. Our imaginations started to run wild as we entered the Rangipo Desert and it felt like we were back in the battle scene from 'The Fellowship of the Ring' as the barren land really placed your mind there even though much of it was just for Army Training Reserves. It did not take long though before the mountains were in our rear view mirrors and the next leg of our trip was underway.The road seemed endless, cows and sheep as far as the eye could see, hills that rolled for miles and not a single sole on the road, other than us. The peacefulness became abundant once more as we pulled over for a chat with the local sheep as they grazed at a viewpoint back onto the mountains before arriving at the small town of Ashhurst, where we picked up some spaghetti for dinner and indulged in a grocery store. From there we picked up the famous Kiwi fruit, which we later found out is actually a Chinese Gooseberry and was renamed for sales purposes by the Kiwi's. We also brought a fruit called a Fijian. Personally I had never heard of it before but I think it's something we will be eating a lot more of, it's a small green fruit which is eaten much like a Kiwi. Inside it has a small soft flesh which has the sweetness of a Kiwi but also the bitterness of a lime, a perfect match. Once we had brought our treats for the evening we made our way to the camp site, a day of little fun other than driving but plenty for the imagination to dwell on. As we arrived in Kiriwhakapapa Camp ground we were met with 4km of dirt track and at the end, snuggled away in the trees, was a basic campsite and basic was all it was!

The next morning we encountered our first significant rainfall in New Zealand - so not bad going really, oh yeah, more concerning was that a tramp was laying next to the campervan… Rachel hesitantly worked her way to the toilet while I scouted out the stranger from the window. On her return we were pretty in quick in having breakfast and soon made our way out. The rain at this point was falling a lot heavier, after all the glorious weather we had been having here in New Zealand we hoped this would not mark the end of it. The days plan was thrown slightly in to turmoil with the weather. We called into a town called Masterton where we snuck dry shelter for a bit before venturing through the Rimutaka Forest Park. Here the hills here were steep and the roads slow, a queue of traffic patiently waited behind our banger as she slowly but surely climbed the mountainous terrain and eventually we arrived at our first stop of the day. The rain had subsided and the sun starting to smile through the clouds and we were in the Lord of the Rings set (one of). As we warmed our bellies with soup we set off on a short hour long walk through Riverdell where the scene of the Fords of Isen were filmed. We crossed a rickety swing bridge and entered into the forest, below the river trickled through the valley, we can't quite work it out but we believe this was where the Ring was first found, it looks like it anyway so once again our imaginations went wild. Once again nothing cloud break the peacefulness that surrounded us, not a single sole in sight and the park to ourselves it seemed. Returning to the camper we set off again further around the Lord of the Rings trail. This time we came across the Rohan River scene although the exact spot could not be located. Eventually we arrived in the town of Upper Hutt where we picked up a big bar of chocolate and some cornflakes. Unfortunately we could not find shredded wheat anywhere, the intention of course was to make Grans Easter Egg Nest. For all you who know this nest, your mouths will be watering, the only trouble is New Zealander's don't eat Shredded Wheat… a real set back so we settled for Skippy's cornflakes - a poor substitute but our hand were tied. "This is a hidden message to Granma Worobec, although I am late for Easter by two months if there is any spare Shredded Wheat and chocolate the 23 year old Grandson could do with a treat after living on rice and peas for two months". Anyway, as the sky started to turn once more we headed back to Kaitoke Regional Park where we had first stopped and had discovered a cheap campsite with BBQ facilities, drinking water and a flushing toilet. It was like a Pork Roast with all the trimmings bar the apple sauce (a shower). As we set up camp for the night by the Hutt River we got straight to work on making our chocolate cornflake cakes before playing our new game of Travel Scrabble, a seriously good investment we believe, and of course with Rachel in charge of the money, it was a Bog off! Eventually the day turned to night and the search for the Ring had taken it out of us for the day so it was not long before the bed was made and we were asleep.

The next day we awoke early as after another bitterly cold and disturbed night it was clear that the first signs of a cold had developed for both Rachel and myself… well a cold for Rachel, I am sure mine is more like Flu. After we both enjoyed a warm cup of tea, feeling sorry for ourselves, we hit the road for Wellington. Today it was our intention to enjoy New Zealand's National museum at Te Papa and what would make it even better is the fact that it is free. The only downside would be that parking costs $12 however, once we arrived and paid up for the day that was forgotten as we entered into New Zealand's history keen to learn as much as possible. Inside the modern facility we were greeted with an array of different exhibits, from the depths of the ocean to the inner core of the earth. The first stop was based around New Zealand nature with a selection of the different animals and creatures that inhabit the island, both local and introduced. At the far end of the display there was a huge yellow tank and inside was a colossal squid around 4 meters long. Apparently Te Papa is the only place in the world with one of these on display and whilst Rachel pondered how much fish bait we could get from it I was thinking about how many fried Calamari rings it would provide. After watching a short film on how it was caught we entered the next exhibit called Mother Earth. It took me back instantly to my 'A' Level Geology days in college with its focus on rocks, volcanoes and earthquakes. All of this was of great interest to me and the way the museum captured it was great as many of the displays were interactive and there was even a house where we experienced an earthquake. Rachel obviously already knew but I was fascinated and after I reassured her a ghost had not come to kill her, like in Sheffield, we headed out of the Museum for a lunch break. It felt like a school trip but only far more interesting with all the activities around to amuse yourself and no teachers to tell you what to do and when.

Later, sitting back in the Camper eating lunch, a 'Jock' pulled up beside in his 1.1 Hyundai and decided to open his door straight onto our poor Cindy. Without a hint of regret he laughed and walked on his way as Rachel and I looked at each other not believing his rudeness. Many a word could describe this but they are just not suitable for the blog. Si instead I filled my hand with moisturizer, applied a little to the dry skin on the legs and arm, then deposited the rest across his windscreen. I'm sure, as he loves himself and his car, he will be happy that we have provided the grease to make his automobile shine. We then headed back to the museum and into a room containing large screens. Behind us found small white sticks and computers and realised it was basically a giant Wii. On the computer we uploaded images and videos of ourselves, then we placed them on the screens and played with them that way. This was basically a giant memory bank of everyone who visits, the pictures tell the story a little better but when we stood back and watched the screens it seemed like a giant brain that scattered images from all across the globe, of people, nature and emotions. After our integrative fun we headed upstairs to see some of the art… then we left, "some art interests me but this contemporary stuff just puzzles me". After a long day in the museum we made our way back to the camp site where we had stayed the night before. Although it was 25km out of the city the draw back to it was like the Ring itself!

On our final day in the North Island we left the camp site early to make our way down to Turakiae Head where there is a wild seal colony. On the trip down through Wainuiomata we called in at Catchpool Valley Camp Site to check out the facilities and found that it was good for a potential nights camping as it had a hot shower. Now considering the last shower we had was a week ago the body clock body was starting to smell a bit on the rotten side so this was good news. We continued on our way and after arriving at Baring Head and parking the camper we laced up our boots and started the walk to the seal colony. As we wandered over private land across the shoreline the views were stunning, waves crashed on to the rocks and on the horizon the south islands Malbourgh Sound stood tall and in the distance the seals bathed in the afternoon sun. After crossing the rocky terrain we eventually reached them. Below us was the longest sea weed known to man but in front of us were these beasts and as one swam around the rocks, no doubt on the hunt for lunch, the others were laid out in the sun. As I crossed for a better picture I turned around to see Rachel following, then suddenly I froze and called to Rachel to a stand still as below her was a seal, and he was big. He was no more than a foot underneath her, probably wondering who had woke him up as they are probably not used to strangers. Without too much fast movement I made my way back across the rocks. Rachel was long gone by this time and as his big black eyes followed me all the way I bent down for a cheeky photo before leaving him be. After all I did not really fancy getting beaten up by a seal. As we headed back to base the sand flies attacked once more but eventually we arrived back at the camper following a long hike across the rocks. After a break for lunch we headed back to the campsite and to a hot shower. Rachel went in first and I came second although I have to say the shower did not turn out to be as pleasant as one hoped. In actually fact it felt like the water had run direct from a pipe line from the South Pole. Following the shower from hell, although to be fair at least it was a wash, we decided to do a runner back to our cheap Kaitoke Regional Park. The piky in us now had really come out but we have to do what we have to do to survive and that's what we had do. After arriving back for our final night we sat playing cards wondering what the South Island would bring. All of a sudden there were two gun shots. We both froze. We knew that hunting was permitted but at 9 o clock at night we were not so sure. Above the van we heard a duck fly over, clearly in distress, and spent the next hour peaking through the blinds watching the poaches hunt for their catch. Eventually they found both their kills and were on their way and our hearts finally slowed down and we relaxed once more.

As the morning arrived the windscreen was completely iced over. The day before Rachel had asked, "shall we buy some D- Icier?" "Don't be silly I replied it's still the end of summer"… that morning she delivered that punch line of "I told you so". I had no response.. just a smile as what could one say? Eventually we defrosted and were on our way to catch the ferry to the next stage of our journey. As we leave behind the hills of the north and exchange them for the mountains of the south we can't help but feel our New Zealand adventure has much more to give. After a fantastic time experiencing the dolphins of the Bay of Islands, the smells of Rotorua and the free fall of Taupo we can only now only hope that the Beautiful South is going to provide many more vivid memories of our travels.