Queenstown to the Milford Sound - 19th April to 21st April

The day started early once again as we had a long drive ahead of us and to get onto the right road to Milford we had to drive around the entire lake. As we departed we decided to make one last stop at Arrowtown Bakery, this time to get a couple of pies for the journey but unfortunately they had no lamb and mint so we had to settle for steak and mushroom, a vegetarian and chicken and apricot… later we discovered that none were up to the previous standard but at least we were set for the journey. As we drove around the lake we left behind the colours of autumn as they were replaced with the greens of the Fiordland Region. This area of New Zealand has some of the country's most breathtaking scenery with mountain peaks in all directions and canyons that pass through them, once carved by glaciers, laying flat and seemly completely out of place in comparison to the mountains either side. As we followed the 300km road towards Te Anau the change of season became apparent once more and the landscape shifted quicker than we could look. Falcon's dived towards and away from the road more than ever as we neared the gateway to the Milford Sounds.

After a long drive we arrived in Te Anau. Rachel found a great little spot to park up overlooking Lake Te Anau where we got our bits together to make our final preparations for two days in Milford. After a quick bite to eat, watching the endless stream of boats sail up the lake towards the Doubtful Sounds, we wandered into the town where we sat back with a coffee at the Fat Duck before grabbing another pie which we would share for dinner that evening. Just before leaving town I grabbed a brochure on walks in the Milford area and we were set, although just before we hit the road to Milford we remembered probably the most important thing of all, fuel.

As we set off on the 120km road to Milford that winds through misty mountains, steep valleys and luscious rainforest we were ready for a photogenic experience. The first 50km were somewhat calmer than we had expected and also in comparison to the Marlbourgh sounds but we expected it all to change once we left the valley floor. Our first stop was a place called Mirror Lakes, set in beech forest the waters are perfectly still which provide a picturess reflection off the peaks behind, all bar the lonesome duck that was having a wash at the time… Then we passed through a number of camp sites and that was the call to stop for the day as time was getting on and on such a popular tourist route it would not be long before the places filled up. We nestled the camper into Lake Gunn, a small campsite that was wrapped around the lake, along with the local sand flies we were joined by a few more campers and the park ranger that collected the fees, dam it! As the sun started to descend we watched over the water as the wind dropped and the mountains turned upside down on to the water, a picturess end to a long day of driving. Once we settled down with a cup of tea and dinner the evening drifted away whilst we played travel scrabble and cards.

The next day we awoke early with the sunlight barley hitting the windows, although that did not seem to bother the local Kea that had clearly decided we should be awake. After breakfast we warmed the engine up and headed about 10km up the road to the Divide Car Park, the end of the Routeburn Track that we had walked a few days before. Once we kitted up we set off to explore this side of the track for the day on a hike of around 20km return. The sky was clear and once again we had been blessed with perfect weather although our noses ran faster than we could get the tissues out in the cold alpine air. The first hour of the track was all up hill, so nothing like getting the blood flowing early, all around us forested cliffs sat all but vertical on either side as we climbed higher into the hills. The track was rough, as it was a few days before at the start of the track, but we soon arrived at the first view point by diverting off the main track up to the Key Summit that sits 919 metres above sea level. Here the air was even colder and the wind sent a real chill down our spines. Pulling our hoodies over our heads we climbed higher up the track to be met with a perfect view looking down the barrel of three valleys where the rivers flowed swiftly through. Looking up at eye level there was panoramic view of the misty peaks that make the Milford Sounds so spectacular. Towering up from seemly no where these mountains, capped with snow from the recent wet weather, poke above the clouds at all angles. As we descended back down to the Routeburn track it was not long before we arrived at our first break point at the Howden Hut and ironically here we bumped in to numerous people that had set off with us a couple of days prior and had obviously walked the entire track.

After soaking in the views getting rehydrated and refueled we were on our way again, heading further inland towards the Earland Falls, a 174 metre high waterfall, that would mark the end of our walk. We passed through more luscious forest, water streamed down all around and the moss that covered the trees before now also covered rocks leaving a stunning lime green colour all around and where water trickled down from above. After arriving at the falls we sat and enjoyed lunch, chocolate spread sandwiches, whilst the water cascaded through the glacier carved rocks from above. We sat by the pool that caught all the water which was perfectly clear in colour and that shimmered the colours of the rainbow as the sun beamed through the falling spray. As we set off back to the divide we followed the path back stepping through water, mud and rocks to reach our home. We arrived back a little before 4pm, filled up with water and made our way back to camp for a relaxing night so as to regenerate ready for our drive to the main attraction of the Milford Sound in the morning.

As morning arrived we were treated to the real mistiness of the Fiordland National park. Stepping outside next to Lake Gunn we could see the clouds had descended onto the lake and the mist from the lake rose to give only a small window of clarity in between the two air masses, a postcard perfect picture that no camera could possible reflect. However once the sun got to work the air soon cleared and we made our way up the Milford Highway where very quickly the road became as we had expected. Travelling through towering forests with mountains that rose sharply from either side we tailed in and out of the numerous tour buses and soon entered into a valley that had not been hit by the sun yet. The area was like glass, ice and frost everywhere and it felt like the air temperature dropped 10 degrees in a matter of seconds. Further up the road we were stopped at the traffic lights at the Eastern end of the Homer Tunnel and as we watched a Kea swoop down to the road side we pondered the safety of the tunnel. It looked like the drill from thunderbirds had carved the tunnel straight through the towering mountain and out the other side and as the light went green we put on our lights and drove through quickly… dark and perfectly carved, water dripped constantly onto the vehicle. As the light beamed in from the other side we waited to see the view, which was breathtaking, it was like entering another world. All of a sudden we were high up, below us the road wrapped in and out of the mountain to reach the Cleddau valley floor and in front of us glacier shaped cliffs dropped vertically to the ground, some smooth as glass in their appearance. After descending the hill we arrived at Chasm Walk where the Cheddau River flows furiously through ice carved rocks. Stopping for a break we walked along the forest covered track and watched as birds fought over worms and water pushed through small canyons that looked like the work of glass blowers as they were that smooth. After departing we only drove for a few more kilometers before arriving in the Milford Sound.

The place was packed, we grabbed a coffee in the café, I tried a Chai Latte, "won't do that again" and I finally found out the football score from the weekend, and that put a smile on my face… (Ipswich 3 Scum 2…going down). We then set off walking around the area, we view the postcard famous Mitre Peak and watched as plane after plane took off behind us, the roar was constant of traffic and we sort of lost the appeal to the area. In my eyes the place had become over run with tourists and the runway was a joke, Gatwick would struggle to send that many planes into the air safely so quickly. Although on our way back to the camper our luck was in as we saw a New Zealand Falcon sitting quietly in the tree above and finally we were able to grab the picture we had fought so hard to get for for 6 weeks. After lunch we decided that it was time to move on, as beautiful as it was we wanted to get on the road. We had changed our plans spontaneously and decided to get some driving done across country to Dunedin. As we drove back down the Milford Highway and out to Te Anau we left behind the mountains of the Fiordland National park and replaced them with the flatter region of the southland. After around 3 hours of driving and numerous encounters with a now photogenic Falcon we arrived in Gore where we pulled in to a camp site for the night and to have a shower and refresh for the days ahead. Unfortunately I did manage to have a small disagreement with the woman who owned the camp site but luckily she did let us stay the night where we enjoyed the company of our heater in the cold New Zealand air.