Arriving in Puno at 7pm, we knew we were leaving the next day so ummed and aahed about staying right by the bus station. Put off by the names though ´sweet love motel´etc, we thought we´d be better off in the centre. We were probablybut only just, a shabby little hotel that offered us two single beds, and a freezing nights sleep. Sufficient for us though and after beating Steve at chess, again, we had an early night, ready for our trip to the floating islands - Uros flotante. I had been a bit put off by other people´s reports of these islands, as they are only reached by tour boat and are frequently reported to be massively over touristed and fake. We had a great guide though who explained the history: The Uros people, escaping from the conquering Incas about 500 years ago, set up their homes on Lake Titicaca. Everything that they created for their lives came only fromthe reeds on the lake, including the ´land´ on which they built their homes. This practise has continued today, although tourism has massively expanded their economy, changing the traditional way of life. Our guide told us though that because of the period of terrorism during the 80´s when the Sendero Lumino (shining path) meant no tourists came to the islands, the people have learned not to be entirely reliant on tourism and continue to trade fish with people on the mainland.

At the moment, there are 50 or so islands, the number is never precise, not only because new islands are created and old ones rot and die, but also because if you decide you don´t like your neighbours on the island you can get a great big saw and cut yourself, or them, off!

It was really interesting to see these islands and how everything is made from the reeds and how life can be sustained from the lake. It´s hard to know though how tourism is really affecting how people live here and whether people like us are bringing an extra income and tourism is just part of a natural development of the economy or whether we are changing an ancient way of life.
After our tour we returned to Puno and after grabbing our last lunch in Peru, complete with Inka Kola and mate de Coca we headed to Bolivia. We have stayed in Peru longer than any other country on our trip and have had a great time in the 10 weeks since we crossed into the north from Ecuador.

Highlights of Peru:

• Getting engaged! (this actually only came 5th for Alison when she was working her list out !)
• Climbing Chachani, have we said that it was over 6,000m.
• Our goodbye dance from the kids at the orphanage (trying to find somewhere to upload the videos)
• Machu Picchu
• Our plush hotel in Lima, with a bath!!!

Lowlights

• Steve being sick in Nazca.
• Inspecting Steve´s poo on a daily basis.
• Changing nappies, Edu´s in particular.
• Losing our mobile phone
• Saying goodbye to the kids
• Nowhere to buy a nice big engagement ring!!!!

Peculiarities;

• Inka kola, luminous yellow fizzy drink that is sold everywhere. We thought it was Peru´s homegrown business success story, but it turns out, depressingly, it is now Coca Cola´s product.
• Not being allowed (in the orphanage) or served (in lots of eating etsbalishments) your drink until you have finished your food.
• More rubbish collections lorries with ice ceam van like melodies
• Children being wrapped up like they are off to the north pole when we are in shorts and flip flops.

We have really enjoyed Peru and will have really fond memories, especially of Huaraz and the kids in Arequipa.