I flew from Rio to El Calafate via Buenos Aires, it took most of the day and I arrived into El Calafate late in the afternoon! The scenery as we came into land was strange - it was quite arid - not a lot to see but there was the most amazing green/blue river snaking through! I got to my hostel - I was really keen to trek the W trail in Torres del Paine usually listed as one of the 10 best treks in the world so I looked for some advice from my hostel, the advice was what I wanted to hear so I decided I'd head to Puerto Natales in Chile and start my trek from there (which was my original plan anyway).

I arrived in Puerto Natales after 2 ( a little late as there had been some bother at the border 'cos someone accidentally tried to sneak an apple into the country - there pretty strict on that stuff in Chile (nearly as bad as Australia and New Zealand). I stayed at erratic rock - a hostel that very helpfully, everyday has a 3 o'clock talk offering advice on trekking the W trail.

After the talk I met 2 guys Ian (English) and Uri (Israeli) who were also planning on trekking alone and we decided to join forces and hire tents, but food and carry stuff between us (yeah you have to carry all your own stuff on the W trail). It took us most of the evening to get sorted and the following morning we set off early to reach the park and start the 5 day W trail!

We got a bus into the park and then a catamaran across Laguna Pehoe to get to where we would start the trail. The first part of the walk was relatively enjoyable - the views were pretty magnicicent, in the valley behild us there was the magnificent blue Laguna Pehoe and to our sides were dramatic pointy mountains, some of which were covered in snow! As we continued we started to see the massive and again fantastically blue Lago Grey. As we continued even further we got our first glimpses of the grey glacier. Even further on we started seeing icebergs floating in the lake - it was pretty spectacular. We got as far as the grey refugio - unfortunately that wasn't where we were staying and we had to power uphill for another hour - although this was pretty difficult it was worth it as we were camping a 2 minute walk from the glacier and the views were awesome!

The following day we tried to get a relatively early start (we did discover that we had bought muesli instead of porridge - only after we'd added it to boiling water - yuk). For most of the second daw we were doubling back on ourselves although it did give us a different perspective on what we'd seen. After we reached Pehoe (where we'd started) we had a break and then headed for Los Cuernos. This provided some more stunning scenery, including a beautifully still lake offering perfect mirror images of the stunning dramatic mountains behind! The second day was quite tiring and we were incredibly relieved to reach the campsite and get set up for the night! One of the best things about the W trek is you don't have to carry water as there are loads of streams providing lots of cold crystal clear glacial melt water and each campsite is built near one of these streams/rivers!

Day 3 on the hike was amazing - for many reasons - one being that for the majority of the day we didn't need to carry our backpacks - we walked form Italiano up the Valle de Frances. This provided some stunning scenery again, as we walked up the valley there was an amazing mountain covered in a massive glacier which periodically produced a roar like thunder and if we were quick we could see the avalanches falling off! Behind us as we ascended into the valley was magnificent lake. As we continued on and passed the glacier covered mountain we were treated to more dramatic rocky and pointy mountains. We continued to the viewpoint and I was treated to what is probably the best panaromic view I have ever seen in my life!

We returned to the camp picked up our bags and headed for the next campsite (only about 1 ½ hours away). This was also a nice walk as part of it was along the lake shore. One of the other really nice things about the W trail is the variation in terrain and surroundings as you hike, quite a lot of hiking is through forests which are really nice and then from time to time you hike along a lake as well as plenty of hiking out in the open surrounded by amazing mountains!

We arrived at Los Cuernos at a decent hour and were able to get a decent campsite. It was also nice to be able to sit inside as this was also a refugio. After dinner we sat inside playing cards with Tom and Sarah (a couple we'd met on the way to the hike). As it was a clear night the stars were amazing and I spent a little while looking at them before going to bed - also as it was clear night it was pretty cold but I slept reasonably well (thanks to my thermals and sleeping bag)!

Day four was another tough day - it was a long day and predominantly uphill. There were again some spectacular views of lakes and mountains but it did involve a lot of head down and get on with it walking! We actually made some decent time arriving at the Chileano refugio not long after lunch time and then we powered on to the Torres campsite! I toyed with the idea of heading up to see the torres that evening but thought about it too long and by then was too cold to go. Tom being a massive legend had stopped along the way and bought us all some beer (and then carried it up to the campsite - what a legend) so that night we enjoyed out dinner (rice and sauce) with a cold beer - heaven!

The following morning we got up really early (6am) to climb to the Torres (towers) for sunrise. It was bloody freezing dark and as we climbed we were hammered with sleet. Near the top it was cloudy and we met quite a lot of people who were turning back but we decided to finish it. As the sun came up the clouds began to disappear and began to strike the bottom of the Tores - it looked like the clouds might clear and I might be treated to the best sunrise of my life - however, at that point it started snowing so we hung around a little but then gave in and returned!

Then there was nothing to do but finish the trek and head to the Los Torres hotel where we could catch our bus! Luckily it was predominantly downhill and we made it in decent time!

The W trek is certainly the most spectacular trek I have ever done. It is my 5th multiday trek of the trip but is the first I've done unguided! The lack of a guide was fine but carryina all my own stuff was difficult! Most of the other treks I have done have involved some pretty high altitude and for me I think I'd trade a backpack for high altitude any day! However, there is a reason it is often listed in the world's best treks and that is because it is simply spectacular - the scenery is unbelievable and the range of beautiful views you can see from a single vantage point is unbelievable! I'm really glad I made my way to southern Chile to trek the W!

After the trek we returned to Puerto Natales and after sorting out our equipment and having the most amazing shower I just hung out and then the 5 of us went for a slap up meal! It was so nice to have proper food after 5 days of rice/spaghetti/cereal bars and biscuits! Then it was St. Patrick's day and time to return to El Calafate and celebrate with Tara!