On 27 September we arrived in the town of Pucón on the eastern shore of Lago Villarica. Pucón is in the Chilean Lake District region. The town is nestled amongst beautiful mountains, and across the lake we could see the conical, snow-capped Volcan Villarica.

The next day we undertook a guided hike to the top of the Volcano. The peak is at 2,847masl and the walk involved an ascent of 1,400 meters. After a short ski lift ride we began the walk in snow. We were kitted out with ice picks, crampons and mountaineering equipment. It took us six hours to reach the summit. The top of the Volcano is covered in a huge glacier. At the top we could look straight down into the steaming crater and smell the sulphur. The Volcano is overdue an eruption, which added to the sense of nervous excitement. The journey down was the best part of the trip. We took out mini-sledges from our backpacks ('bum-boards') and began a descent of the Volcano, slowing ourselves with our ice picks as we went. Fantastic views and the longest sledge ride we've ever had.

Being in a volcanic area there are many thermal springs near Pucón. We rested our weary bones at the Termas de Pozones, a beautiful series of thermal pools beside the Rio Liucura in a peaceful valley.

Our hostel is more of an Eco lodge. We learn that the staff help maintain a private reserve, named El Cañi, that was purchased by locals in the 1970's to protect it from logging. We joined some other guests staying at our hostel who drove us in their converted campervan to the start of the trail. The weather was rainy and cold and the path steep, muddy and slippery. We trudged up the mountain and after a few hours we reached a refugio. After a brief pause we continued up the mountain. We reached and cross the snow line at about 1,000 meters elevation. We found the walking on snow preferable to the mud. We continued on and the rain turned first to snow, then hail. We were freezing. There are huge Coïgue trees and lots of bamboo. We eventually reached a freezing lake in a clearing near the summit. We decided to turn back as it was getting late and we needed to get back to the van before dark. We made a very slippery and hasty descent back down the hill. We were very glad to get back to the hostel and sit in front of the wood burning stove.

This region of Chile is known for the native Monkey Puzzle trees which grow here. The trees grow above 1,000 meters elevation. The weather the next day was very good and we did a full day hike in nearby Huerquehue National Park. The 'Los Lagos' walk was quite challenging, but less so than El Cañi, and the views were amazing. We saw large stands of Monkey Puzzle trees (many around 40 meters high) and beautifully clear mountain lakes reflecting snow capped mountains. We get back to Pucón and treat ourselves to a meal out involving some seriously good Chilean steak.

After a morning of rest and admin we take a short (6 hour) bus trip south to Puerto Varas.

~Chris