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"To Moscow, to Moscow, to Moscow" yes Anton Chekov was spot on, except we were probably going a lot faster than Anton ever felt possible. It is 700 kilometres from Saint Petersburg to Moscow, and our journey would take only about four hours, with an average speed of 200 kph. The train was amazingly quiet and it was possible to pour a glass of wine without spillage, this experiment was personally tested by the group.
We arrived on a Friday night when most Muscovites are heading off to the dachas for the weekend, so the journey from the train station took some time. We arrived at the Marriott which is very central. A few calming wines and a light meal in the hotel restaurant and then we retired to our room.
A nice relaxed start the next day and then we headed off on a tour of the city. The day was forecast to be hot around 38 degrees. First stop was Teatralnaya Metro Station. The Moscow Metro was opened in 1935 and it was the first underground railway system in the Soviet Union. Our tour guide told us that Stalin wanted to cheer people up so insisted that the Metro be spectacular, with paintings, sculptures and chandeliers. I think people would have been happier with food and freedom, but hey that just me.
After the Metro we drove to Red Square. The Square is located between the Kremlin and the Gum Department store. Greg has his thoughts about the use of public space for private gain. When we arrived we saw that the Square had been seconded for a military tattoo, he thought this was an abomination and I agreed. Greg has strong opinions about the use of public spaces for commercial uses. I have strong feelings about any military tattoo, especially one that includes a bag pipe.
St. Basils' is also located next to the Red Square it is quite spectacular.
The GUM department store is located along the East side of Red Square. By the time of the Revolution the building contained about 1,200 stores. After the Revolution, the store was nationalised, it is now privatised and has stores from all major designer brands. It is an enormous using with vaulted glass roof which provides light to the arcade.
Our tour guide left us at the GUM store. For Greg and Rob Vines walking through a high cost shopping district is akin for me spending time in an aircraft museum in Tuscon. Greg and I went to the top floor of this massive arcade and walked around the galleries until we came to the ground floor level, where we found a display promoting a large infrastructure project. Screens showed large spans of concrete flying into place to form a bridge. The Kerch Strait Bridge will link the Crimean peninsula with the Russian mainland and will be 19 kilometres long. After researching the bridge it seems that many experts think bridge it will not remain upright as the area sea floor is unstable and earthquake prone. When we came to the end of this display we found a poster with the project's mascot, an orange tabby in a high viz vest. If the cat is in charge they must be in good hands, cats are such good engineers.
After our walk in the very comfortable air conditioned space. Greg and I walked around Red Square and then other blocks around the square. Those of you who know me will understand how much I just love hot humid conditions and large crowds, so you will understand I was a wee bit tetchy. Finally we met the bus and back to the hotel. We had decided not to go with the others on the optional tour so Greg and I went back to our very comfortable air-conditioned room where Greg had a nap and I played with my photos.
I'm in Moscow and this doesn't include spending the day in a hotel room, so after a Greg's nap I insisted that Greg and I go for a walk.
I went to the hotel concierge for a helpful map, which wasn't helpful at all. The map had English names which were hard to reconcile with the names on the street signs in Russian. Greg had hope that we could visit a flea market but this proved an impossibility. In frustration I said to Greg lets just walk and see where we end up.
Moscow is in a mad frenzy of construction and renovation. We passed some very old 18th century buildings which had been recently restored which were situated next to derelict building with trees growing from cracks in the walls. We crisscrossed the streets and heard the sound of music (not the movie) coming from a small park. There was a jazz festival in full swing with an audience of young families and hip older jazz lovers enjoying the music. I love it when you discover something unexpected in a new city.
In the evening we had plans to meet a friend who lives in Moscow, Andrei Morozov. Andrei worked for me at American Express over 15 years ago. Andrei and his family moved back to Russia sometime back and now he is a very successful senior executive in large bank. He picked us up and took us to a restaurant called Dr. Zhivago. We had passed the restaurant earlier in the day and our guide told it was one of the most popular new restaurants in Moscow.
The menu was completely Russian, which was what I'd hoped for. I choose a chilled soup with a yoghurt base and diced boiled egg and fresh herbs, it was delicious. My main course was buckwheat noodles with cod in a cream sauce, also delicious. Greg decided on beef stroganoff which he enjoyed.
After dinner Andrei drove us around Moscow to show us the night life, its was one in the morning and the place was buzzing. It was interesting to get a natives' view of the city. Andrei pointed out things that the local guide didn't mention. He pointed to plaques on the sides of building. These plaques remembered famous people who had lived there and had been murdered on Stalin's orders. Andrei dropped us back around 1:45, and invited us to his house for dinner with his family the next night.
It was a great ending to our first day in Moscow.
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Helen Fairlie is the Metropol Hotel still there in Moscow? That's where Warwick and I stayed in 1983!!! Originally quite stylish but by the time we stayed, falling into a bit of disrepair! great position though.