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Another beautifully in Riga and we were off to explore the Moscow district with Joan. The Moscow district is behind the central market area and was as an area of Russian, Belarusian and Jewish migration for hundreds of years. Housing in the area is predominately made of wood. Up until the mid 19th century wooden houses were mandated by the rulers of Riga. In times of invasion the occupants had to burn down their houses and seek shelter behind the city walls. This district is one of the poorest areas of Riga and many of the buildings are abandoned.
The area also is home to the Old Believers, who are Russian Orthodox Christians who maintain the liturgical and ritual practices of the Russian Orthodox Church as they existed prior to the reforms in the 17th century. They opposed forms of Greek Orthodox worship, which were introduced by the Tzar. Joan inquired with the gatekeeper to see if we could see the interior of the church, and the answer was a definitive nyet, as we ladies were not appropriately attired to enter the church.
During the Nazi occupation of Riga, this neighbourhood was turned into a ghetto for Jews. Today, there are memorials on the site of the synagogue and the old Jewish cemetery. Most of the prewar buildings remain standing. One of the main feature of this museum is an ominously long wall covered with the names of victims of the Holocaust in Latvia. The currently exhibit is dark room with lamp shades of Latvian of holocaust victims with their photo their story. There was also an exhibit in a train carriage, the interior was set as a birch forest and photos of jews being rounded up. A large majority of jews from Latvia were shot in the birch forests.
After about an hour we left and headed towards the central markets. There a telltale signs that the area is on the cusp of renewal as the old brick warehouses are transformed into trendy businesses around the market area.
Into the market pavilion to find a nice place for lunch. We found a little place that served traditional Latvian meals. Joan had potato pancakes;I had a very tasty pumpkin soup and Greg had potato pancakes and pumpkin soup. Appetites sated we headed of to a local flea market that Joan had discovered.
The market was a hodge lodge of small traders each selling specific second hand goods. I didn't think that you could have a business selling secondhand television remote control, but what would I know. Other stalls sold old door handles, secondhand power tools, fishing gear, books, old Soviet medals and all were sold with scowl. We spent about an hour walking around the market and headed back to Joan's.
Greg had bought some of his watch repair tools and so was able to look at a few of Joan's watches that needed some TLC. I looked on as they discussed in detail the movements in these watches; it's a joy for me to see people sharing their shared interest.
It was getting late and I was getting hungry so I suggested we head out for dinner at a restaurant just around the corner from Joan's apartment called Ferma. Once again Riga has shown that they have exceptional ingredients and chefs. The meal was excellent, finishing off another great day in Riga.
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