FROM STEAV & BILL:

The perils of not traveling there together! We are still at the Sadler NAture Preserve (SNAP) and leave for Egypt in about 6 hrs... meanwhile we are getting updates from Bill Collins via his Strawberry, or Blueberry, or Boysenberry, or whatever it is (it ISN'T an iPhone!) who are already in Cairo - Tom should arrive soon and we will get in Friday night at 2 am (ok, Saturday morning at 2 am... sounds like a Simon and Garfunkle record...)

So here are Bill C's updates - for your entertainment. I (Steav) will pick up the narrative when we arrive.

FROM BILL C & LISA en route:

January 2, 2008 3:28:44 AM EST:

We are now on the underground heading to Victoria station and from there to Brighton. Flight was good. No baggage troubles. We did not sleep much: too warm on the plane. More later.

January 2, 2008 7:13:15 AM EST:

Probably the only day I could justify wearing long johns was our quick trip to Brighton. While it is sunny here it is around 40 and windy. We are back on the train heading to Heathrow. It took us longer to travel to Brighton than we anticipated so we grabbed sandwiches at the train station to eat on the ride back. I'll touch base as we board for Cairo. (Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry)

January 2, 2008 10:29:44 AM EST:

Okay, after the train we were on two stops from Heathrow was terminated, we felt a little panic. However, 6 minutes later another train picked us up and soon we were at the terminal. The only glitch going through check in was Lisa had a 4 oz bottle of contact lens cleaner: they didn't like that. They at least let her buy a 100 ml bottle and a security agent squeezed it full of her cleaner. Message: stay under 3 oz in any single container. Also be sure they all fit into 1 qt ziplock (carryon of course). Talk with you when we land in Cairo.

January 2, 2008 5:08:21 PM EST:

We are in Cairo now. Taxi seen is confusing. I think we paid way too much so I live and learn. If you guys send me your flight info, we'll arrange taxi for you if we can. See you soon.

Later that day, from Bill C:

This is a hustler's paradise! We went to one of several small banks to buy our Visa and get some cash: no problem.

Immigration was a breeze. But then a very professional english speaking Egyptian man engaged us about being on a tour. As soon as I said we were here on our own and needed a taxi, he took care of us: for a price. Our fare cost us 85 EPD; then a man walked us to the taxi driver and had to be paid a tip (he felt $5 US was fair) then off we went to the Capsis. At first our driver was not engaging: he seemed disappointed about where he was taking us. But as we got closer to downtown he talked with us and pointed out several sites.

Cairo is indeed dirty. Even in the dark you could see it. But then I haven't spent time in NYC lately: maybe it is just big city dirty.

He got us to the Capsis just fine: traffic was light by Chicago standards for midnight traffic. The boulevard is big and vehicles seem to wander in the lanes with no intent to be in a specific lane. Headlights also seem to be optional. After another $8 tip we said a cordial goodbye.

A doorman cordially greeted us and ushered us to the smoke filled front desk. He passed my bag to a bellman: Lisa had hers on her back so there it stayed. After copying our passports and filling out a form with home address information and signing an affidavit that we understood valuables left in the room may not be safe so use the free hotel safe, the bellman crammed the 3 of us and our backpacks in an elevator designed for two people.

Our room was a pleasant surprise: very clean and comfortable with white walls and a tall ceiling, lovely tiled floors and a really decent bathroom/tub/shower.

Yes, Cairo is a cacophony of sounds even at 1 AM but it is only a distance background noise. I'm sure we will sleep just fine.

So goodnight for now: talk with you soon.

AND FROM BILL C & LISA IN THE MORNING:

We slept well last night. Towards daylight I got up and put in some earplugs: the car horns were getting louder. We slept until 11, showered (plenty of hot water but low pressure). We walked around the block: the area we are staying is a major autoparts and hardware sales district. There are many little stores selling a few items such as dolly wheels.

We then sat in the Capsis lobby for a bit to study the map for where we would walk to lunch. We chose Felfela and we found it! It was recommended in the book just off Sharia Talaat Harb (main retail shopping district). We ate heartily: taamia, lentil soup, hummus, yoguhrt, faalet (rice) with beef. !besides a big bottle of mineral water we had expresso (Lisa) and cappuccino We are off now to walk along the Nile. Bye!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

AND FINALLY, FROM TOM P (Still in Charlotte):

NWA flight cancelled. Now on US Airways flight. Sitting on aircraft. Ready to depart. More later.