I'm writing from the Iwokrama outpost on the Esquibo river in central Guyana. I arrived late on the 3rd with Bernadette, the other girl doing the scheme, and after spending ten minutes filling out immigration forms for Chinese officials who couldn't understand english (I was so tempted to write occupation-spy and send them through) we got taken into the capital Georgetown and to our guesthouse. We spent yesterday in Georgetown, the capital, taking a tour ...