DAY 161. SAT 14/07. Dar es Salaam: North Beaches to South Beaches. 48 kms. Total 30842 kms. Kipepeo Beach Resort, South Beaches. S6 51.099 E39 21.698

Not too sad to leave Bahari Beach Resort - OK for brief 1 night stop but not much longer. Our 1st stop on the way into town was a BP service station to draw cash at an ATM, put in fuel and buy some oil for Cathey's next oil change coming up soon. Once we reached town proper we stopped at Barclays Bank (S6 48.661 E39 17.248) to buy more dollars for Mozambique and Zambia. Went past the Land Rover dealership (S6 48.727 E39 17.135) to buy a part but they were closed as it was Saturday. (looking for another 109 metal hub end cap as the new plastic one Rob had put on in Arusha hadn't even lasted a day!) Next went down to the ferry dock at S6 49.232 E39 17.305 to book tickets to Zanzibar for tomorrow. Booked a slow ferry, The Flying Horse, departing around mid day tomorrow for $25 pp and a fast ferry, Sea Express II, coming back 4pm on the 19th, for 35$ pp. In between popping into 'Sub Way' for lunch other admin/chores involved visiting a travel agent to start enquiring about flights to Oz for Dave & Sarah's wedding, internet as well as a trip to Superdoll (S6 50.311 E39 15.468) to price a new deep cycle battery. After nursing it along for as long as we can, our auxiliary battery is now dying on us and won't last out the trip, but unfortunately the largest Optima they had was only 75AH (smaller than our current one) and at a price of $404, we finally decided against it. Also stopped in at a place to enquire about Old Man Emu front shocks as our front right shock had started leaking after the Bagamoyo road, but they didn't stock them anymore. Might have to wait until Malawi to change these. Still had more admin to do but as it was getting late decided to do the rest after we come back from Zanzibar so we headed for the Kigamboni Ferry across to the South Beaches. (S6 49.193 E39 17.865) Luckily we did, as with only one of the 2 normal ferries in action and it being used to transport half of Dar, especially in peak hours, we had to wait 2 hours to get across. 1st went to Sunrise Beach Resort to see if anyone we knew was camping there but with it being quite empty we went next door to the better Kipepeo Beach Resort, where we knew "the others" would be - Ewan, Margie, Gerald and Maryanne. Great campsite set right on the waters edge with stunning white beach perfect for swimming. Good value at only $4 pp per night. Also has a lovely bar and restaurant setting on the edge of the beach although their food and especially drinks prices are much more expensive than next door at Sunrise Beach. Anyway we still sampled the atmosphere with a few cold ones at the bar before going back to the camp to cook dinner.

DAY 162. SUN 15/07. Dar es Salaam to Stone Town, Zanzibar. ? kms. Total 30842 kms. Jambo Guest House.

Didn't have to leave too early as our ferry to Zanzibar wasn't until mid day. Packed up the camp as we were leaving Cathey there ($2 per day) while we were on the island and parked her out of the way. Caught a taxi back to the ferry (4000TSh) and went over as foot passengers and then just walked to the ferry dock. Arrived in Stone Town about 3 & a half hours later. Wasn't far to the guest house but just took a taxi to the guest house as finding your way around Stone Town is pretty confusing at 1st. After checking in to the guest house we went for a walk around town and ended up at the busy Forodhani Gardens were we had a selection of seafood dishes from the open air food stalls. One of the highlights of Stone Town. Later went for a drink at Mercury's overlooking the harbour. They were showing highlights (or should that be lowlights?) of the last Trinations rugby match between SA and New Zealand so we stayed to watch that. Ended up taking another taxi back to the guest house and arranged for the taxi driver to take us on a spice tour tomorrow.

DAY 163. MON 16/07. Stone Town, Zanzibar. ? kms. Total 30842 kms. Jambo Guest House.

Had a great breakfast at the guest house (included in the rate, also free tea and coffee anytime) before meeting the taxi driver at 10am. Went out to a community spice farm and picked up a guide just before going in. Very interesting tour which they make quite fun too with lots of demonstrations and gifts (ties, hats and handbags weaved out of palm fronds). Also get to taste a selection of fruits at the end and they have a selection of spices, teas and coffee on sale too. We highly recommend the tour and it is a good initiative by the local community which is worthwhile supporting. We were back in Stone Town at lunchtime and went for a light lunch at a small café near the guest house. Rest of the afternoon we walked around town some more doing some sightseeing and taking photos of the many old ornately carved wooden doors, for which Stone Town is famous, and did an internet search for flights to Australia which proved quite successful. In the evening we went for a lovely local dinner at the Green Garden restaurant just opposite the guest house. Also arranged with the owner for a transfer up north to Nungwi Beach for our next 2 nights on Zanzibar.

DAY 164. TUES 17/07. Stone Town to Nungwi Beach, Zanzibar. ? kms. Total 30842 kms. Guesthouse ?

Another yummy breakfast of omelets, fresh fruits, fresh bread rolls and tasty jam, tea and coffee at the guest house before departing at 8am up north to Nungwi Beach in a taxi minibus shared with other backpackers (7000TSh pp). A bit of a white knuckle ride as Tanzanian taxi drivers only know one speed - foot flat! Quick stop to change a wheel when we had a puncture which we found quite ironic as we haven't had one yet in Cathey in all this time and now on our 1st journey on public transport we have a flat! Oh well, they obviously are not using BFGoodrichs!!! Relieved to have arrived safely we went for a quick walk along the beach - paradise! Brilliant white sand beaches and clear turquoise blue water dotted with dhows. Checked out a few guesthouses (eg Jambo Brothers and Union) and eventually settled for a new place with nicely furnished rooms and en-suite bathroom just next to Union a little bit back from the beach where another South African girl on our bus up had decided to stay - we never caught the name of this place (only has 4 rooms) but it was good value compared to the others although not right on the beach. Weather unfortunately was a bit overcast so we waited for it to clear a bit before hitting the beach a little bit further down near Cholas Bar. Managed to lie in the sun for an hour or 2 before it started raining and we went next door to a beach bar for some beers and some cheap local food for lunch. Later in the afternoon when the tide was up (better for swimming) and it had stopped raining we hit the beach again for a swim before returning to our guesthouse for showers before going out for dinner. Went to Jambo Restaurant where we had a pleasant seafood dinner right on the water's edge with the high tide lapping right below us. Beautiful with the moon reflecting off the water!

DAY 165. WED 18/07. Nungwi Beach, Zanzibar. 0 kms. Total 30842 kms. Guesthouse ?

Another delicious breakfast at the guesthouse to start the day after a bit of a lie in. Unfortunately the weather was still overcast and rainy so we just lazed around the guesthouse for much of the morning. Inga had a bit of a nap on the couch and later in the morning with the weather improving Rob went down to lie on the beach and read a book. At lunch time we took a stroll down the beach and had delicious burghers at Nungwi Inn Restaurant after which the sun came out and we spent the rest of the afternoon on the beach in front of the restaurant swimming, tanning and reading, moving our towels up the beach as the tide kept coming in. At least we got some perfect weather while we were in Nungwi, even if it was only on our last afternoon! On the way back to our guesthouse we stopped at Cholas Bar (rustic beach bar right in the sand with furniture and decorations made from old boats and drift wood and THE place to watch the sunset) for sundowners. Chatted to a Swiss bloke we had met earlier at Jambo Guesthouse in Stone Town before going back to our room after dark. Still full from the big lunch we didn't bother with dinner and just settled for an early night!

DAY 166. THURS 19/07. Nungwi Beach, Zanzibar to Dar es Salaam. (via Stone Town) ? kms. Total 30842 kms. Kipepeo Beach Resort, South Beaches. S6 51.099 E39 21.698

Had breakfast with the South African girl (the only other guest staying here who we had chatted to quite a bit in the last 2 days) - a bit earlier this morning before catching the transport back to Stone Town. Same bus and driver as on the way up but luckily he didn't drive as crazily as before although we did almost hit a child who stepped out into the road without looking. Safely back in Stone Town it was blisteringly hot (of course, as we were leaving today) so we went down onto the beach and had a drink at a under an umbrella and watched the boats and dhows sailing by. Rob was now walking around barefoot as he had lost his slops in Nungwi (we think they were washed away by the incoming tide while lying on the beach) and was attracting many comments and sideways glances while walking around (and very hot, sore feet ;-() Went for a quick lunch at a small local eatery before wandering around the small back streets again getting lost while doing some last minute souvenir shopping. Bought a small painting of the Zanzibar style carved doors as well as a Bao board - an East African board game similar to backgammon played on decorated wooden boards with carved out hollows, usually with seed pods or cowrie shells for pieces. Anyway, we really wanted one but now we looked like real tourists lugging our souvenirs around and we have to find a space for the bao board in Cathey! Luckily Stone Town now has ATMs (at least 3 - even Nungwe has a visa cash point) as with the shopping we had now exceeded our Zanzibar budget that we had brought over with us from the mainland. Headed back to the harbour, through immigration (Zanzibar has separate immigration to Tanzania) and waited for the ferry in the sun. Very fast ferry and we were back over in Dar in around an hour and a half. Quite rough seas and at the speed we were cruising most of the upper deck where we were sitting was soaked with spray and one or 2 people were getting sea sick. Did the same as on the way over and walked back to the Kigamboni ferry (Rob still barefoot) and then caught a taxi back to Kipepeo, arriving just after dark. Glad to see Cathey still there, safe and sound, just with a flat tire, from our leaking valve on the front left, so once we had pumped up the tire and set up camp it was quite late. So just went next door to Sunrise Beach Resort (cheaper food) for a pleasant fish meal and a few drinks.

DAY 167. FRI 20/07. Dar es Salaam. 83 kms. Total 30907 kms. Kipepeo Beach Resort, South Beaches. S6 51.099 E39 21.698

Unfortunately we had more errands to do in town today so it was another day spent driving around town. Would have liked nothing better than lying on the beach all day doing nothing and having a few swims. Chose not to take the ferry this time and just drove around into town the long way which only took about an hour but traffic was still quite bad getting into Dar. 1st stop was Land Rover to see about the part we were looking for but they didn't have it as it is from an old model but they directed us to a place in town ("Century Automobiles Ltd", Morogoro Rd/Mshihiri St.) who had what we were looking for so we bought 2 109 metal hub end caps. Next stop was AA to enquire about Comesa insurance which after having avoided/neglected for so long, we had now decided to take out as we had heard we may be stopped and asked for it in Mozambique. AA said we could get it through any insurance dealer. We tried at one place and were eventually sent to Jubilee Insurance (3rd Floor, TDFL Building, Ohio Str. - behind main Barclays Bank) where we got 2 months Comesa cover for around $50, including the compulsory minimum Tanzanian policy. Next was internet where we finally booked our flights to Australia to Dave and Sarah's wedding. Very relieved this is now done - one less thing to worry about. Then filled up all our diesel tanks at Total in town for the trip down into Mozambique, where diesel is more expensive. Last stop was Shoprite (S6 49.680 E39 16.502) to restock for the next few days before heading back to camp again the long way round. This time there was minimal traffic going back so only took around 45 mins, leaving Rob with just enough time for a swim before it got too dark. Quite relieved not to have to do that again - i.e. spend another day in town. Luckily managed to bum an extra extension lead from one of the camp staff so we could plug in our fridge and keep everything cold, as there is only one plug point in the camp and someone else had already camped there where we had been planning on setting up. Rob quickly fitted and sealed the metal hub end cap, replacing the broken plastic one, in the dark. (ps a repair which has held to date and solved the problem at least temporarily) Although no time for an oil and oil filter change which was now due but would have to wait till later?

DAY 168. SAT 21/07. Dar es Salaam to Kilwa. 323 kms. Total 31230 kms. Kilwa Seaview Resort. S8 55.645 E39 31.302

Ewan, Margie, Gerald & Maryanne were up at their usual 05.30am and off at 07.30am. We were up to see them off but only followed after them an hour or so later. This road has a terrible reputation but overall it wasn't too bad; 1st half to just past the new'ish bridge over the Rufiji River is good tar. Then a short stretch of rough'ish gravel road to about Mohoro. From there is the section of the road that is sometimes impassible during the wet season with 18 & 24 wheeler trucks getting stuck in mud holes. But when we did it in the dry it was OK although very uneven and slow. Mostly sandy on the surface with possibly mud or clay below making it still fairly hard, just with deep holes caused during the wet season. Anyway all of us got through OK, even the other couples, towing trailer and caravan. Unexpectedly approx. 60 kays before Kilwa Masoko road becomes good new tar again which was a bit of a bonus and we arrived at Kilwa Seaview Resort just before 4pm, the others having arrived about an hour before us. Set up camp and went for a walk down onto the beach for a sundowner. Quite a good day except for Cathey's front right shock which had obviously taken a bit of a hammering on the rough roads with us being quite heavily fuelled. Slightly damaged before it had now leaked quite extensively.

DAY 169. SUN 22/07. Kilwa. 0 kms. Total 31230 kms. Kilwa Seaview Resort. S8 55.645 E39 31.302

None of us were up for a boat trip to visit Kilwa Island to see the famous Kilwa ruins as we had some things to do around camp in the morning. The ladies did some washing and Rob changed Cathey's oil and oil filter. Later in the afternoon was a bit more relaxing with swimming in the pool and lying in the sun next to the pool reading before discovering MNet Supersport in the TV area. We and Gerald proceeded to watch our 1st Formula 1 GP race of the season followed by our 1 and only stage of the Tour de France cycle race. Felt like a true Sunday now watching sport for Rob. Later we joined "the others" for dinner for the 1st time (and definitely not the last) which was lovely and a bit of a treat for us as traveling with freezers etc. they are very well stocked with fresh meats from South Africa, goodies and other luxuries (for us anyway?) Thank you to Margie, Ewan, Gerald, Maryanne for your great company, amazing hospitality and for looking after us so well. (Over the course of the next 2 weeks too?.)

DAY 170. MON 23/07. Kilwa to Mnazi Bay Marine Reserve, South of Mtwara. 347 kms. Total 31577 kms. Ruvula Sea Safaris. S10 18.406 E40 23.669

We had decided to travel with the others today as we were a bit worried about the roads. This meant being up at 5.30am and leaving camp at 7.30am which is a good habit to get into. However the roads were fine - a little bit of good tar at the beginning until you come to gravel/earth detours, almost all the way down to Lindi, where they are building a massive new tar road. However the detours are quite well maintained and generally of quite a good standard. We had stopped to put in more fuel at BP in Lindi (the others had put in earlier before leaving Kilwa) at S9 59.874 E39 42.977 when Gerald discovered a problem with his Isuzu KB truck, a reoccurrence of an earlier problem with the pulley for the alternator & power steering belts which had come loose again. Luckily we were near a good mechanic (S9 59.985 E39 42.987) and they stopped there for repairs. On Ewan's suggestion, it was decided we would carry on and possibly stop in at 10 Degrees South (backpackers/guesthouse/bar/restaurant) in Mikindani for lunch and to try and get some more information on the ferry as up till now we had not had any replies to our sms's trying to contact the ferry man in Mtwara. Mikindani was a very nice short stopover. Had a great, cheap fish and calamari lunch (unfortunately no prawns!) and a few beers and also got a slightly different number for the ferry man (+255 754 869357) to the one we had which we tried and immediately got a reply. Also got some insurance for the others that Ewan had asked for from one of the staff. There is also a great dive centre located next door to 10 Degrees South: eco2, with apparently some great unspoiled diving in the area and Marine Park. Might warrant a return visit on a bit of a diving trip??? Were a bit unsure about what to do next as the ferry man had said it was only possible to cross on 27th, a day or 2 later than we were expecting/planning. So we were in 2 minds if we should wait and tell the others or go on to Ruvula Sea Safaris as planned. Decided to go and explore some camping options at the hotel behind 10 Degrees South (Old Fort?) before coming back to wait for them at the main road. The repair was only supposed to take until 3 pm and now being shortly before 5 they should have come past already. So we started to get 2nd thoughts that they may have come past us while we were up at the hotel so we decided to push on. Arrived at the Ruvula Sea Safaris around 7pm, (around 8 hrs driving time) just before dark and camped in a great spot on the sand, under palm trees overlooking the ocean and the sunset. Had a bit of an argument at the entrance to the Marine Reserve at the gate before arriving at the camp as there is a $10 pp entrance fee but we got the feeling it is arbitrarily enforced and there seems to be no point in paying for a Reserve when there is an oil refinery being built in it and the locals are continuing to fish as though it didn't exist. We had met some British expats earlier who told us to say we were with the oil company and we wouldn't have to pay but this didn't work. Anyway the others weren't there yet but we knew they knew where we were so we weren't too worried, although we were beginning to think what bad luck we have had traveling in convoy with others! On our 1st day driving with these guys we get split up?. What is it with us? Is it something we said? ;-)

DAY 171 - DAY 173. TUES 24/07 - THURS 26/07. Mnazi Bay Marine Reserve, South of Mtwara. 0 kms. Total 31577 kms. Ruvula Sea Safaris. S10 18.406 E40 23.669

The others arrived at lunch time the day after we arrived, having spent the previous night in a bungalow in Mikindani as there is no camping - obviously coming past while we were up at the back at the Old Fort Hotel, which was why they never saw us. Had planned on only spending 2 nights here in total but now with the ferry only being on the 27th we had an extra 2 nights to spend! Not a bad place to be stuck for an extra 2 days though - right on the beach, with great sunsets as it faces west. So didn't do much except relax, lie on the beach, read and swim. Inga baked some bread one day as they have a bread oven and bread forms which they were firing up so they let us put some of our own bread in too. Also joined the others for dinner again for some Kenyan kingfish fillets which were superb - some of the best fish we have ever eaten! We were offered some fish and squid on or 1st day here, which we refused, but not again since, so it doesn't seem as plentiful as we would have imagined - strange being a marine park? Ewan also tried quite hard the one day to get some prawns but there didn't seem to be any around. All in all though a very nice relaxing stay with great hot sunny weather - perfect for the beach and topping up the tan!