DAY 149. MON 02/07. Keekorok Lodge, Masai Mara to Kihancha (via Sand River Gate). 161 kms. Total 29220 kms. Hotel Pre-Mara. S1 11.415 E34 37.311

Awoke shortly after dawn and watched the hot air balloons firing up for their early morning balloon safaris. Weren't in too much of a rush to leave for a morning game drive and only left camp after breakfast heading down towards Sand River Gate. Didn't see much game on the way down there though. When we arrived at the gate we were told there were no Kenyan border formalities (i.e. customs or immigration) which presented a bit of a problem as we had stamped the carnet in Nairobi. But when we had thought about it for a while and said we still wanted to go across they said it was not possible, or that we would first need to go and "negotiate" on the Tanzanian side. So we took the Masai Mara official with us through the gate to an outpost of the Tanzanian/Serengeti wildlife reserve where we were told it was not possible. So we returned to Sand River Gate a bit disappointed as it meant retracing our steps and we were not looking forward to doing the C13 road back to Migori again. Heading back towards Keekorok, we stopped and talked to a few Tanzanian drivers and tour guides and they said the border we had tried to cross is not even open for them - something that is likely to remain the case for the foreseeable future - at least until if the proposed East African Federation common border agreement is ever signed! Anyway, we made our way back slowly towards Oloolala Gate, still seeing very fee game. At least Masai Mara does not employ the 24hr entrance rule common in Tanzania parks so we did not have to pay for another days entrance unless we spent another night in the park. We left the park around 2.30 pm looking for a place to camp near the gate but with no luck - all nearby places were upmarket lodges or tented camps. So we decided to hit the road back towards Migori and see how far we got. Went much quicker than the way down and road didn't seem as bad the second time. Late afternoon, about 20km before Migori, we took a turn off towards Kihancha, after spotting the Hotel Pre-Mara sign, where we camped after negotiating a deal to camp with the last of our Kenyan Shillings. As we had planned to be in Tanzania by now we now had no local currency left which was a pity as the hotel restaurant seemed popular with the locals and served good looking chicken and chips. Again the local bank in Kihancha had a booth constructed for an ATM but no machine installed yet!

DAY 150. TUES 03/07. Kihancha to Serengeti Stop Over (near Ndabaka Gate), Tanzania. 208 kms. Total 29428 kms. Serengeti Stop Over. S2 12.145 E33 51.863

Stopped in Migori to top up with fuel again. Restock with a few supplies and draw some more cash. After waiting in the ATM que for about an hour we were finally on the way south again heading for the border. Border formalities on the Kenyan side were swift and hassle free and no charges involved. Also changed Kenyan shillings into Tanzanian using money changers. The Tanzanian border post at Sirari (S1 14.699 E34 28.528; Kenyan border only a few meters north of this way point) was equally swift and hassle free. But this time had to pay 5$ for road tax and 20$ for foreign vehicle permit to Tanzania Revenue Service. You are issued with a very official looking receipt for these that you have to keep to show when you leave Tanzania. Also a visa fee of 50$ pp which we thought was a bit steep but this being Tanzania you have to quickly get used to it and a small fee of a few hundred shillings which is basically a border toll which you have pay when leaving the border compound at the exit gate. We tried arguing out of paying this at it seemed irrelevant after paying the other charges but to no avail. Good tar roads again all the way from Migori which continued down into Tanzania, much to our surprise and relief, so we fairly flew down towards Serengeti, stopping along the way for lunch. Arrived at Serengeti Stop Over camp, just past Ndabaka Gate, mid afternoon. A good place with a real Southern African feel but at 10$ pp a bit overpriced in our opinion. Anyway we had a bit of a misunderstanding with them about the price as we thought we were quoted 10$ all in, not per person (again!). After dinner when we were brought the camping bill for 20$ and complained and asked to see the price list they gave it to us for 10$. But it didn't end there as we even argued (incorrectly as it later turned out) with them about the correct exchange rate to the $, so we ended up short changing them there a bit too. Felt a bit bad afterwards but we had supported them in other ways - eating dinner at the restaurant (decent fried chicken and chips after the beef stake we had been craving and had ordered was finished) and sinking a few Kili's (Kilimanjaro: one of Tanz's most popular beers!) One other German overland couple in a kitted out Landcruiser in the camp too but they were busy running around so we didn't speak to them much. Also our 1st experience so far of camping with an overland truck (who we were to run into again consistently over the next few days) whom we must admit were quite friendly and quiet and well behaved, which was a bit of a surprise.

KENYA COST SUMMARY:

• Diesel: 64.49 - 68.5 KSh/l (cheapest in Nakuru)
• Camping: 200 - 500 KSh pp
• Food: generally reasonable/average prices in large supermarkets (e.g. Nakumat) depending what you buy. But wide range - everything under the sun is available! Some "western" style restaurants in Nairobi quite pricey but worth a treat now and again.
• ATMs: readily available in most large towns e.g. Barclays Bank etc.
• Park Fees: Masai Mara (new park fees/post 01/07/07): 40$ pp per day; 10$ pp camping per night & 800 KSh per vehicle

Lake Bogario NP: (old fee/pre 01/07/07): 2000 KSh pp entrance; 500 KSh pp camping; 200 KSh per vehicle

Sibiloi NP: (old fee/pre 01/07/07): 20$ pp entrance; 200 KSh pp camping; 300 KSh per vehicle

Crater Lake Sanctuary: (old fee/pre 01/07/07): 200 KSh pp entrance; 100 KSh per vehicle

KENYAN ROAD SUMMARY:

Overall the standard of Kenyan roads was much worse than we anticipated. Obviously up north (i.e. Lake Turkana-Maralal-Lake Baringo/Bogaria) we were expecting rough roads but they were not too bad and we managed with few problems. Other overlanders doing the Moyale-Marsabit-Isiolo road reported much the same thing. Coming south towards Nairobi via Nakuru-Nyahururu-Giligil and east into Nairobi via the new Navaisha road, was all good, decent tar. However heading west again between Gilgil and Nakuru the gravel/tar road is in a shocking state due to the construction works. Carrying on west towards Lake Victoria and Kisumu the tar road is badly potholed and some caution is required when driving this route. Other overlanders reported the route west towards Eldoret (used to get to Uganda) as equally potholed, if not worse, as well as the road south from Nairobi to Masai Mara via Narok. One bit of good news is that the road south from Kisumu along Lake Victoria, towards the Tanzanian border at Isebania, via Kisii, is all new good tar. Otherwise the C13 unsealed earth road east from Migori (just north of the western Tanzanian border crossing), towards Masai Mara is fairly passable (not too good/not too bad) in the dry but would probably be a bit more challenging in the wet!

DAY 151. WED 04/07. Serengeti: Ndabaka Gate to Seronera. 174 kms. Total 29602 kms. Pimbi Public Campsite. S2 25.251 E34 51.002

After a leisurely breakfast (more bacon and egg) we arrived at the western park gate, Ndabaka, at about 10.30am. Don't think the campsite was too sad to see us go either - we are definitely not on their Christmas card list! So all in all our "new" route had only cost us a 2 day delay - not too bad really! With our wallets anticipating some major action we went into the office to see what the damage would be. Came out 200$ poorer - for only 24hrs in the park. 50$ pp per 24hrs, 40$ per vehicle and 30$ pp camping. Quite extortionate really! Remember these are new park fees having recently increased on 1st July! 1st few kilometers in the park were quite quiet before seeing many giraffe, (very dark - almost black markings: think they might be the Masai Giraffe?) Afterwards we started seeing in ever increasing numbers swarms of wildebeest and zebras following the migration path through the western corridor. Around lunch time we had reached Kirawira station (airfield and rangers post) and drove in there, left off the main track to a nice picnic spot along the river. Before stopping for lunch though, we drove along the stream to look at some more wildebeest and zebras that had just crossed the stream and saw another safari vehicle parked and the occupants down at the river having a look at something. We stopped just in front of them further along the river. Immediately in front of us we saw a crocodile in the water still holding a dying wildebeest - its horns and part of its body still visible above the water. The other vehicle now approached us and told us they had witnessed the kill. The wildebeest had been taken by one croc as it crossed the shallow stream but the water was too shallow to drown it there so it had been joined by another croc which helped drag in into this deeper pool further to the left where we now were. And we had only missed it by a few minutes! But at least we had some excitement even if we just missed the kill we certainly saw the aftermath! Also were a few hippos to look at close by. After lunch, heading east towards Seronera, we didn't see much new game, besides a few buffalo and a jackal, just loads more wildebeest, generally heading north east up towards Kenya and the Masai Mara. Late afternoon stumbled upon a herd of elephant right next to the road in deep bush. Rob promptly cracked a beer for the "afternoon game drive" in towards Seronera to get into the spirit of African safaris! Stopped at Retima and Orangi River Hippo pool approaching dusk, just north of Seronera, and saw hundreds of hippo. Bit of a race to just reach camp before dark, seeing 3 hyenas in the bush next to the road on the way, which we just managed, getting maximum use of our 24hrs in the park! Dik Dik campsite was packed with tents so we tried at Pimbi Campsite just next door and managed to find a spot by squeezing between the tents. Certainly wasn't our scene with everyone on organized, catered safaris will all meals prepared etc. so we just kept to ourselves, made some dinner and had a fairly early night in preparation for getting up at sparrows fart tomorrow morning.

DAY 152. THURS 05/07. Serengeti, Seronera, to Ngorongoro Crater. 184 kms. Total 29786 kms. Simba A Public Campsite. S3 13.688 E35 29.407

Were awakened before dawn by loud grass chomping sounds near our tent - shone our headlights out the tent and saw a large buffalo grazing in the campsite! Definitely not the place to go wondering around the camp at night! Up and cooking breakfast in the dark before sunrise and left the camp at 7am. Definitely our earliest morning of the trip so far so we could get a bit of a morning game drive in and get out of the park before 11am. Headed straight towards Thatch Kopjies, seeing some giraffe and a hippo walking out of the water on the way. Approaching Thatch Kopjies, to the west of the main Seronera road, we saw numerous safari vehicles, so we knew it must be one of the big cats. On the 1st kopjie was a lioness and about 3 cubs basking in the morning sun on the rocks. Took some photos before heading off to the second kopjie. Approaching it we saw a lioness followed by her 2 cubs walking through the grass and then climb up the kopjie where they also lazed in the sun. A bit further away in the long grass on the plains we caught occasional glimpses of a male lion too, when he wasn't lying down. After about an hour of watching the lion with time marching on, we needed to get moving again so set off towards Masai Kopjies on the other side of the road. Just before the crossroads were at least 20 vehicles - apparently someone had caught glimpses of a leopard stalking some antelope in the long grass which was causing mass excitement. We waited a while trying to spot it again but it was well hidden (and probably scared off by all the vehicles too!) and we had to get moving. Heading over towards Masai Kopjies, again numerous vehicles had stopped, and we slowly drove past seeing another male lion under a tree and another lioness on the other side of the road - so lions aplenty. With the track deteriorating close to the stream and time running out we realized we had better turn back and head for the main road, seeing a solitary elephant along the way. Had just over 40kms to do now in just under an hour which we thought we would manage but didn't count on the condition of the gravel road which was severely corrugated. Trying to keep up a decent speed we almost broadsided 2 or 3 times when the rear end let go and could only get back under control after almost coming to a stop. Not easy. Arrived at Naabi Hill Gate about 30 mins late just after 11am and stopped for a cool drink and snacks. You do have to sign out here, but on leaving the gate, they are more interested in seeing your Ngorongoro entrance permit which you have to purchase here too. (we thought this only came later closer to the crater) So we had to fork out another 140$ just to transit the road through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. We were horrified to learn that the crater fee to take your own vehicle down into the crater is now 200$!!!! So we were forced into the decision of not going down into the crater which was a bit of pity. But you have to pay the park fee and vehicle fee anyway, even though you don't see much without going into the crater, just to drive through to get to Arusha! We hadn't decided on camping yet - though we would cross that bridge later but if you include that fee you are looking at 400$ all in for one night/24hr in the crater! One good thing we had learned at Serengeti though is you can pay park fees for both of these park with US$ traveler cheques, one for one as though they were cash, no fees or extra commission, which is a good way of palming off travelers cheques (and saving cash dollars) which are otherwise sometimes difficult and expensive to change in Africa. Unfortunately the road through to Ngorongoro does not improve. One of the more uncomfortable roads in Africa. Difficult to drive at a decent speed over the corrugations (probably because of all the drivers hammering the safari companies' 4x4s along this road) so we spent most of the time driving half in the sand stacked up by the graders on the verge alongside the road. Around lunchtime we took the turn off towards Olduvai Gorge (S3 01.251 E35 18.919) wanting to have our lunch there overlooking the gorge. But when we arrived at the museum compound and look out point they wanted 3500 TSh pp to look at the view. Can understand charging for the museum and the toilets but not the view which is in the Ngorongoro Area which we had already paid to enter. So Inga let rip at the poor man (not his fault really - just greedy Tanzanian government!) and we drove out and ate our lunch just outside the compound. Eventually made it to Crater around 5pm, passing the entrance road down at S3 09.301 E35 28.556. Stopped in at the public campsite, Simba A, to have a look and decided to camp the night, as we had paid so much already we may as well enjoy a night on the crater rim. So off to the park offices (S3 14.704 E35 29.259) to part with another 60$ before returning to the camp. Up top on the hill was already quite full with tents and vehicles. Loads of SA vehicles with all the safari/camping kit on another organized tour and a few NAM vehicles thrown in for good measure. We went down to the bottom of the camp to be away from the crowds and so we could light a fire. Just before sunset 3 large elephants came waltzing into the campsite right down to the bottom of the camp just behind Cathey and began rummaging in the garbage tip which we had inadvertently parked next too. Pretty soon the whole campsite was there taking photos. By this time 2 overland trucks had turned up too, one of them the ones we had camped with before. The elephants hung around until well after sunset by which time the excitement had died down and we had got the fire going for more "klossies"/toasted sarms. Being so high in altitude and on the edge of the crater it was pretty cold and we had our beanies and jackets out again. But that wasn't the end of the action for the night for pretty soon, using torches; we spotted hyenas also rummaging in the garbage, again only a few metres behind our camp on the edge of the campsite, and later warthog too, as well as buffalo again grazing within the campsite not far away from us either. So a pretty action packed camp and at least we did manage to spot a few animals for our money!

DAY 153. FRI 06/07. Ngorongoro Crater to Arusha. 199 kms. Total 29985 kms. Masai Camp. S3 23.111 E36 43.205

Awoke to a misty, damp and cold, and almost empty campsite at 7.30am, with almost everyone having already left to go down into the crater. A testament to how quietly the overland trucks camped near us had packed up and left without waking us up. After packing up and having a quick breakfast we were pretty freezing so as soon as we got on the road cranked up Cathey's heating to get some feeling back into the frozen fingers and toes. We had hoped to drive back towards the entrance road down into the crater and take some photos down into the crater, which we had forgotten to do yesterday afternoon (when it was clear) but with the mist this morning it proved futile. Not much else was to be gained by driving around the crater edge with no visibility so we decided to head for the exit gate and on to Arusha. Brilliant new tar road once you leave the park almost all the way to Arusha so we were there in no time at all. Uneventful drive really except for the coffee and sisal plantations shortly before Arusha which were something different. Stopped in at the Shoprite Supermarket in town (S3 22.511 E36 40.744) on the way through to the camp to stock up, draw money and also looked for a place to have lunch, with no luck - would have killed for a Spur Restaurant! But shopping was good though and managed to stock up with all the good SA goodies: Yum-Yum peanut butter, Jungle Oats, boerewors and sosaties etc. Also good selection of beers including Castle but went for local Kilimanjaro this time as our Tusker supply from Kenya had now been exhausted. Traffic was hectic driving through town and had to stop for more cash again as Shoprite only takes cash which had used up most of what we had drawn earlier. Not that many ATMs in town but found one at S3 22.342 E36 41.569 - complete with normal queue. Didn't get a good feeling from Arusha when driving through - too crowded, dirty with too much traffic. As if it had grown much too quickly (thanks to the tourist $) This feeling was NOT to improve either - not our favorite place!! But was quite glad to finally arrive at Masai Camp around 4pm, somewhat sheltered form the hustle and bustle of town. Immediately met Hans, a great character, and leader of a group of Afrikaans South Africans, mainly from the WP, on an "Erfgeldvreters" tour. They were having a "black tie" birthday diner at the restaurant and luckily we managed to borrow one of the few campsite braai drums they had commandeered for a lekker braai. 1st borerewors and sosaties of the trip for us! Also downloaded some of our North & West African trip info for Hans who had expressed an interest in our route. Were awoken at around 3am by loud music from the bar, which for some reason managed to get louder and louder as it got later and later. Backpackers off the overland trucks (about 3 trucks in the campsite) having a good Friday night session. Not the place or time for a good nights sleep - especially over the weekend (just our luck) but unfortunately only campsite in town! (reported that Snake Park Camp Site closed?)