DAY 97. FRI 11/05. Luxor to Aswan. 245 kms. Total 21931 kms. Adam's Home (Camp) N24 10.135 E32 51.971

Reluctantly got ready to leave Luxor and Rezeiky Camp. Had a very nice stay here, even managed to get our gas bottle filled up here which was a bonus as we hadn't been expecting to be able to do this until Kenya. Also had met lots of fun people here and now we had to leave - Rolf and Heike were heading north to Jordan and the Dutch were hanging around a while longer as they were only catching the ferry a week after us. They had invited us to join them as they were probably going to rent a private ferry/barge for the trip to Wadi Halfa but we couldn't justify spending another week in Egypt. After lots of swapping info and contact details and protracted goodbyes we eventually left around mid-day. We tried avoiding the convoy to Aswan by crossing the bridge and heading down the west bank to Idfu but were turned back at the 1st checkpoint and told to wait for the 3pm convoy as obviously we had missed the main 8am "tourist convoy". Managed to slip through back on the east bank though but only managed a few kilometers south until we were held up to wait for an escort. Shortly before this Rob had been stung on the arm by a wasp or bee while driving with his arm out the window so this did not improve his mood. Wasn't too bad actually, eventually 2 police escorts turned up and we drove with one in front and one behind (our own private convoy) until the next check point before Idfu where one left us and we were down to one in front. Irritatingly though, we weren't allowed to stop at Idfu or Abu Dom to see the temples. Not that we felt we were missing out as by that stage we had probably seen enough temples but it was more the feeling of the loss of freedom that irked us. Can't understand the mentality or reasoning behind it. Went into Aswan to look for a camp site close to town but with no luck so eventually headed for Adam's Home, the only camping option that we had heard about from Heike and Rolf, 20 kms back out of town on the opposite side of the river. Pleasant enough camp on a nice patch of sand outside Adam's "Nubian Home" on the west bank of the Nile run by very pleasant people.

DAY 98. SAT 12/05. Adams Home to Aswan and back. 77 kms. Total 22007. Adam's Home (Camp) N24 10.135 E32 51.971

Left our camping paraphernalia secured at the camp and just packed up the tent and drove into Aswan to sort out tickets for Monday's ferry. Arrived at the office of the Nile Navigation Co. at N24 05.937 E32 53.977, next to the Tourist Info office about 3 blocks from the station in Aswan. A very professional Mr Salah ([email protected]; [email protected] ; tel. (mob/cell): 0183160926) had us sorted out in a matter of minutes. Unfortunately though there were no more 1st class tickets left, so it was 2nd class for us. Cathey would leave tomorrow, Sunday, on the barge and we would follow the next day, Monday, on the people ferry. Works out quite nicely now as vehicles arrive same day as we do in Wadi Halfa on Tuesday. Costs were 246.50 EP pp 2nd class for ferry and 2452.00 EP for the Land Rover. He also explained all the procedures of where to be when including drawing a map of how to get to the port. Outside the office we met John (Australian/British born in South Africa) and Irena (Russian/German) who were also driving down to South Africa in a new Toyota Hilux. As we were going to be on the same ferry we decided to team up and do everything together. They had been in Aswan a week already. While we were waiting for someone to have a look at their faulty fridge they took us to a policemen's club along the Nile for a lovely Egyptian style lunch of soup, kofta, rice, salad and bread. After that we headed to the Aswan Traffic Control Office at N24 05.025 E32 54.503 to see about returning our Egyptian number plates, thus saving time in the morning, but being Saturday afternoon they were closed so we arranged to meet up there again with John and Irena at 9am tomorrow before going to the port to load the cars. (Need to have the cars at the port before 11am) We headed for a drive out to the Aswan High Dam (N23 58.160 E32 52.721) passing by the port on the way so at least we know where it is now for the morning. Stopped at the little tourist info/look-out (10 EP pp) where they have some info about the dam construction so Rob was pretty thrilled. Then continued over the High Dam, around past the airport and the back to Aswan over the Old Aswan Dam Wall (Low Dam) so an extra bonus for Rob. In Aswan we filled up all tanks and jerries with diesel for Sudan as from now on no more cheap diesel. (over 50 cents American/l in Sudan and Ethiopia as opposed to the paltry 12 cents in Egypt) Also drew a rather large amount of cash from the ATM to cover the vehicle ferry cost which we only pay tomorrow (today had only paid for the cheaper passenger ferry tickets) and clearance costs in Sudan - about 70 dollars. With all the admin done, we headed back to Adams Home for the night for the last time.

DAY 99. SUN 13/05. Aswan to Port/Lake Nasser. 33 kms. Total 22040 kms. Nubian Oasis Hotel. N24 05.746 E32 53.972

Up early enable us to pack up and get into town to meet John and Irena at 9am at the traffic office. Were almost 30 mins late though as we didn't quite realize how long the drive in would take - not the 5 mins we thought! Anyway didn't take long to return the number plates and complete the necessary paper work (NB: you need to show the white paper you receive after returning number plate to customs before they will stamp out carnet so make sure you go here 1st before going to the port otherwise you will be sent all the way back) As there was nothing else that needed to be done we went straight to the port. (N23 58.444 E32 53.818) Security give the vehicles a brief inspection/search on entering the port but they were all much more interested in John & Irena's new shiny car (more gadgets to fiddle with) so we escaped with our usual cursory glance and the standard question: "Any whiskey?" (As Sudan strictly forbids alcohol) and our standing reply: "No". We then had to wait some time while we waited for the shipping company personnel to be tracked down to get the vehicles paid and letter/receipt to show to customs. Inga did the necessary and parted with our hard earned cash while Rob helped a local studying law with his English translations. Friendly staff at customs then did the necessary with the carnet for 25 EP(?) before another token customs search and we were ready to load the vehicles. We were told to have the vehicles at the port before 11am but it must have been around 1.30pm before they were finally ready to let us drive them one, once they had finished loading all the goods - so it was just "hurry up and wait". Once they were all secured and locked up we headed back to Aswan on the train with car keys on us. Luckily there was no need to leave them with anyone as we will meet them when they arrive in Wadi Halfa to unload. As we had no vehicle for the night, and thus no camping, we found a cheap hotel where Rolf and Heike had also stayed, a quick beer and then lunch at the policemen's club again with John and Irena - grilled chicken and chips this time but still with soup, rice and salad. After that we went on a short 2 hour felucca ride on the Nile, across to Kitchener's Island for a quick visit to the botanical gardens, as they were about to close, before a leisurely sail back to Aswan arriving back shortly before sunset. Very tired as it had been quite a long day so we headed back to the hotel for a shower and bed (although Rob did find some time do some GPS info for Sudan) and arranged to meet the other at the station at 10 am the next day.

DAY 100. MON 14/05. Aswan to Wadi Halfa. ? kms. Total 22040 kms. On board ferry.

Met at the station at 10 am - even though we were told to be at the port at 10 am but we knew ferry didn't sail till late afternoon and had learnt from yesterday it would just be more "hurry up and wait", so we didn't rush. Had planned on taking the train again but there wasn't one to the port for another hour and a half so ended up sharing a cab. Bit of drama at the port before John and Irena collected their tickets (we had ours already) and then we went through immigration. 1 EP each to pay for a stamp on your departure card that needs to be filled in and then we were ushered to the front of another very long queue of irate locals. Then it was onto the boat after having tickets checked. John and Irena had 1st class tickets i.e. their own cabin but we were up on deck with Felix, a Spaniard, we had met earlier and all the locals trying to find a bit of shade. We found a spot on the left of the cabin up front which would get some shade when the sun started going down (as we were sailing south) but for most of the afternoon it was fairly hot in the sun while the chaos of loading the boat was going on outside on the dock. Went downstairs into the other's aircon'ed cabin to see how the other half lived - quite comfy actually so spent quite a while there before heading back up to see how Felix was doing - as we had left him watching our stuff. Eventually started sailing at around six. Did some reading for a while and then we were invited to share some food with the Egyptians next to us - quite a feast actually. At sunset the whole boat did some mass prayers out on deck with all the Muslims having to fight for some space to kneel/bow down. Soon after dark there was not much left to do but stretch out and try to get some sleep. Became very cramped with every inch of deck space taken but still managed a decent night's sleep even if you were touching the sleeping bodies around you.

DAY 101. TUES 15/05. Aswan to Wadi Halfa. ? kms. Total 22040 kms. Deffintoad Hotel, Wadi Halfa. N21 48.013 E31 20.945

Woke at 1st light to the sounds of more prayers. At around 6.30 am we went past the cargo barge and were pleased to see Cathey and the Hilux still safe and sound. At around 7 am we sailed past Abu Simbel and managed quite a good view and a few photos from the ferry - N22 19.711 E31 37.301. An hour or so after that we headed down for good into John and Irena's cabin as it was much cooler and read and slept until we arrived at Wadi Halfa around 11am. Much chaos getting off the boat. During the sailing last night they collected all the passports and then now we had to go into the restaurant and one by one collect passports after they have filled in some forms. A bit of a riot broke out trying to get off the ship and we were stuck in the corridor with much pushing and shoving but the army/police weren't ready to let anyone off yet. So we went back into the restaurant to wait until it had calmed down somewhat. Eventually got off the ferry and waited for busses to take us to the customs and immigration building. This was even worse than the debacle getting off the ferry with even more pushing and shoving - it was definitely a case of "every man for himself - women and children last!" Inga, John and Irena eventually made it on to a bus and Rob just managed to squeeze onto one a bit later. Immigration was straightforward and while we waited for the cars to arrive we enlisted the help of a "clearer" (or he enlisted us?) to do all the paperwork for clearing the cars as it looked like we would be able to get out of Wadi Halfa today, or at least camp close by. Cars arrived at about 3pm but unfortunately could not get them unloaded until tomorrow morning as there was no space on the dock, so we would have to spend a night at a hotel. Luckily we could get some stuff we needed out the car and just check that they were OK. Caught a taxi into town to the Deffintoad Hotel which is very basic - best of a bad bunch, really! Our room even had a big hole in the roof - we weren't complaining - extra ventilation! Arranged to meet back up with our friend in the morning at 9 am to register with the Aliens Bureau/Police and then get the cars. Also changed our Egyptian currency into Sudanese with him and to our surprise got a very good rate - more than we were expecting which makes a change. (Sudan currency quite confusing: "old" and "new" currency. Old is Dinars, new is Sudanese Pounds. 100 Dinars = 1 Sudanese Pound [SP]. Both still used. 200 Dinars/2 SP = 1 $) Headed out into the few streets that make up the town and had a soft drink and some fried fish and bread for dinner at a local eatery and then back to the hotel for coffee from John and Irena, shower - mainly with a bucket as the water was out and bed. Decent nights sleep except for a loud diesel generator that would keep going off whenever the power cut and confused people getting the wrong room and trying to open our door.

EGYPT COST SUMMARY:

• CAMPING: 35 EP Aswan; 45 EP Luxor; 50 EP Cairo = expensive (all per night)
• HOTELS/BACKPACKERS: 20 EP Dahab; 30 - 40 Aswan (all per night)
• DIESEL: 0.75 EP/l everywhere. Exceptionally cheap (about as cheap as Libya) = 7 pence/l or 10 euro cents/l. [NB: be careful of some old style pumps only show litres not price. They might try charge you this (litres) as the price in pounds i.e. over charge you by 25%. This happened to us near Luxor but we realized that would mean we put in over 70 litres which is impossible and it wasn't even that empty. When we asked we got 15 EP back but he had even had the cheek to ask for baksheesh the 1st time while trying to rip us off!]
• FOOD: large western style supermarkets eg. Carrefour N30 03.694 E31 01.758 in and around Cairo only. Luxor and Aswan only small supermarkets and markets. Can get all you need. All reasonably cheap/affordable but also tend to eat out or at the camp quite a bit as it is cheap enough. E.g. 25 EP (less than 3.5 euros) for large meal with starter.
• ATMS: in all/most large towns i.e. widely available and reliable
• GAS: 45 EP to get 6kg gas bottle refilled (at Rezeiky Camp, Luxor)