DAY 36. SUN 11/03. Douentza to Tombouctou. 216 kms. Total 8456 kms. Hotel Camping Tombouctou. N16 45.409 W3 00.240

Up early and left camp 09h30 as we were told drive to Tombouctou takes 6 hours (only 200 + kms). This is route B3 in “Sahara Overland”. Corrugated earth road/track the whole way. 1st 120 kms were ok/do-able on the corrugations but murder on the landy as you have to go fast to keep on top of the corrugations and we were fully loaded with fuel and water for the next leg to Gao. Also watch out for a few bad sand ruts across the track just over the top of blind rises (where you can’t see them) when heading north! After last village & police check point at +/- km 110/120 corrugations get worse especially on the purple stone/gravel. Became almost undriveable for us only ok for the big trucks. We drove mostly in the twin sand ruts next to the “road” from this point until the ferry! Much more comfortable but a bit slower – 40km/h in sand as opposed to 60km/h on track. From the side angle they look more like rolls or waves than corrugations! While crossing a sand rut/track we both noticed something wrong with the landy and the rear right wheel was wobbling somewhat. Luckily we were going quite slowly so stopped to have a look. At first it looked like bottom retaining washer plate and nut on rear shock had come loose and fallen off. We walked back down the track and Inga found the washer plate, but it looked a bit odd, with a hexagonal shaped hole in the middle and lip bent inwards? Rob even supposed that it could maybe even be from another vehicle. Spent some time looking for the nut too but couldn’t find it. Back at the landy we put up the side awning for some shade, made some lunch and unpacked some boxes (as the spare shocks were right up front!) Once we had a closer look we saw nut was still in place but had punched through the washer plate and bottom bush was half way down over the nut too, which was why we hadn’t seen it. This was obviously from going too long and fast (and too heavily laden) over the corrugations. Just nicked a new bush and washer from a spare shock and reinforced with another extra thick washer so won’t happen again. Quite a quick repair but with lunch and unpacking etc we were stopped for about an hour and a half. Made it to the ferry at N16 38.396 W3 00.018 around 5pm. Takes you a few kms along the Niger River to Korioume, some 30 mins, on the north bank from where it is paved road, about 18 kms to Tombouctou. Some confusion as to price of ferry as there were some serious language barriers but we eventually ended up paying 5500CFA. Got in to Tombouctou around 6 pm, some 8 & a half hours on the road. Stayed at the small but OK Hotel Camping Tombouctou – not much of an outdoor area, so we basically camped in the driveway, but inside decent bathroom and large well stocked bar. After such a long day we went in for our last Malian Castel Beer and Coke. Beer even had ice on the outside – beautiful!

DAY 37. MON 12/03. Tombouctou to past Ber. 95 kms. Total 8550 kms. Bushcamp route B2.

Definitely our toughest (and in hindsight one of our most memorable days so far) Had a quick drive around Tombouctou – not really much to see. Bought some bread and had a look at the internet café which was too busy so we decided to push on and hit the piste (route B2 in “Sahara Overland”) Instead of heading directly east from Toumbouctou on the main piste to Ber we went south to Kabara and then east along the river. Went OK for the 1st hour or so as we picked up some tracks but then instead of heading north to pick up the main piste we continued along the river into this little village (not even on our map: Illay/Ilnay?) This turned out to be a big mistake as it was a dead end on a piece of land jutting out into the river. We circled round for some time looking for tracks out but there were none. So we decided to head along the river, which also lead nowhere – only into some cultivated fields. We ended up at some marshy fields with man made berms/walls surrounding them. Still driving cross country and at this stage more than a little lost and off course Rob thought we could skirt past the marshy bit by staying high on the slope of the clay berm. However we lost speed and descended into the marsh up to the axles on one side, with only one wheel on firm ground. One look at our position and we knew we weren’t going anywhere in a hurry! Seriously stuck. Ironic too that after crossing 100’s of kms of sand in the Sahara we find the only bit of mud on our route to drive into! Luckily there were 2 helpful men about and loads of children to help us dig, push, jack, position “sand ladders”, fetch sticks and logs to place under wheels and remove weed etc. After at least 5 or 6 attempts, jacking the landy 3 times and about 2 hours we eventually got out. Luckily for us there were people to help otherwise we may have still been there. Oh for another vehicle and a winch…….? By the time we had packed up and washed all the kit that was covered in mud (except for the sand ladders which we just strapped to the back), taken loads of photos with the kids and their gifts we had given them for helping and navigated back through the village to where we had earlier left the track it was 4 pm! Picked up tracks heading north straight away and after 20 minutes the main piste (and even a signpost to Ber) heading east. By this stage it was almost 5 pm so just drove till dark and camped next to the piste behind a small dune and tree with lots of moths. Brought out the shower (and connected to the water pump for the 1st time - works a dream) and had a lovely shower kaal-gat in the desert to wash off the dried mud/clay which was now like cement! All in all had only covered 95 kms in the day and were only about 50 kms as the crow flys from Tombouctou.

DAY 38. TUES 13/03. Past Ber to 45 kms before Gao. 317 kms. Total 8867 kms. Bushcamp B2 route between Bourem and Gao.

Up early again and away fairly early to try and cover some distance today. Ended up covering most of the distance to Gao, 317kms, in about 8hrs 20 min. For the most part piste is twin sand ruts crossing sand ridges and small dunes interspersed with mud flats where you can get up to speed. Sand ruts are not too bad and we didn’t deflate our tires until just past Bourem where it becomes very soft! Near Bamba there is one steepish dune requiring a bit of a run up when you leave the river and head inland a bit to circle some dunes. After the last village on the river heading east, before you start to head southeast-ish towards Bourem, piste opens out into a more typically wide Saharan piste with loads of tracks. Also a few more steep dunes to cross requiring a run up. After Bourem there is again a corrugated earth road/track in existence but for the 1st 45 kms to Gao it is almost non-existent or covered over by sand and dunes. We let down our tires and stayed on the sand piste until we camped about 45 kms before Gao when it got too dark to carry on. We had hoped to make Gao as around Bourem is not meant to be the safest with vehicles having been stolen in the past. We had asked before deciding on this route and we told it was safe but some have since said that some new Landcruisers and Mitsubishi’s etc are still being stolen (but I don’t know if this is true) We certainly had no problems. Apparently no-one wants old Land Rovers ;-) (except for Chuma! Aside: thanks Hanjo for sending the email from Chuma, Cathey is lank chuffed to have an admirer!)

DAY 39. WED 14/03. Gao to Ayorou, Niger. 303 kms. Total 9170 kms. Camping – Bar Le Fofo N14 44.235 E0 54.870

Only took about an hour to reach Gao this morning. Last half of this route there are no continuous sand track alternatives to the corrugated gravel track so you are forced to drive it. It is generally OK except for once again the harder, imported dark red gravel, where the corrugations are worse. Filled up some diesel and did a bit of food shopping. Inga found a local friend who took her into the market and showed her where to buy everything. She even came back with a take away: fried meat, pepers, onions etc in a fresh baguette: our first meat in ages! Hit the road south to Niger which was newly constructed brilliant tar road, although with many, many deviations/detours onto gravel, which badly affect progress. Unfortunately only as far as Ansongo from where it is 140kms on sand/gravel piste to Ayorou in Niger, although not too bad a road really! On the Niger side they are also building new tar road to the border to meet up with the Mali road so in a few years time it will be possible to drive on tar all the way to Niamey (and on to Agadez) from Europe! The Mali road is apparently being funded by the Chinese – a massive, massive operation with all new machinery, equipment, vehicles and 4x4’s etc! Niger side apparently being built by the French! Anyway, enough road talk! It was baking hot and eventually the heat and dust on the gravel roads got too much so we stopped at a remote spot alon g the Niger (no towns, people or animals about, except for one fishing boat) and Rob went for a swim in the Niger to cool off, as you do – lovely! Went through Mali customs and immigration at Labbezanga border – very straight forward and again no charges for stamping carnet etc:

Mali: Douane/Customs; N14 58.324 E0 42.061; get carnet stamped out

Military passport control/check; N14 58.103 E0 42.267

Mali Immigration; N14 58.090 E0 42.283; get passports stamped out of Mali

From there it was on to Niger passport control/police at Yassane N14 54.482 E0 50.770 for visas (20 000 CFA pp) and entrance stamp in to Niger. They also check other documents like drivers license, insurance and carnet, but do not stamp carnet. This is done at Douane Office in next town, Ayorou N14 44.619 E0 54.817. It was 6pm by the time we had everything done so decided to camp in Ayorou. Stumbled upon Bar Le Fofo which was basically a cross between free camping and a camp site but they did have beer – the creatively named Beer Niger. Camped outside restaurant wall under some lovely shady trees with our own 24 hr security guard. Toilet was a cement floor with a hole in the wall through which you sent your deposit happily on its way towards the river with a bucket of water. Shower was also a bucket so we didn’t bother. Tucked into a few beers and then wnet back to Cathey to cook diner and bed. Quite a nice bar frequented by expat French road builders and locals. Also play a bit of music but luckily for us trying to sleep didn’t go on too late! There is another hotel a few hundred metres further down the road which we suggest you look at first if you want a few more luxuries than Fofo’s!

Camping: 4000 – 5000 CFA for 2 people and vehicle (usually charged per person)

Diesel: 510 CFA/l for "local brew"; 535 CFA/l for imported i.e. Total – seems to be standard price, same all over the country!

Food: One or 2 decent small supermarkets selling essentials e.g. in Bamako – costs moderate. Otherwise street food/markets selling food, fruit, veg & meat are everywhere and cheap.

OVERALL:

We were hugely impressed with Mali. Great country, with some good sights and very friendly people and we had a fabulous time. A highlight of our West Africa trip. Not what we were expecting as the country is much greener and lusher than we imagined. Especially along the Niger, with loads of huge trees. We only saw signs of desert (and our first camels in a week) once we reached Douentza. Hassle factor, even in the "touristy" areas we found to be quite low. All you need to do is say 'no' once politely and you will be mostly left alone once they get the message. Although not speaking any French also helps get rid of would be guides etc. but we did have friendly locals talking to us for hours in French even though they knew we didn't speak the language!