At 4am, I lay awake in bed wondering what on earth posesses these wonderful people to get up early and set fire to what must be the largest and loudest firecrackers in the world! Is it a sense of naughtiness, of fun or possibly a way to get rid of tourists from their magical world? I almost fell back to sleep before it happened again and then again. I was at the point of hiding my head under the pillow when the dragon drumming started, the firecrackers reached a ...

This morning both Susie and I are feeling a little concave, or is it convex.... anyway we are both starving! Our last meal seems like a lifetime ago; since the dodgy sushi we have shopped till we dropped in plastic heaven; run across Guangzhou; grabbed a salad in Starbucks; run for the busiest train in China; sat for seven and a half hours in a packed train; survived a 40 minute ride with a driver who obviously thinks he is from the Schumacher family and finally ...