Thursday 15th November - Saturday 24th November - Sihanoukville

We arrived off the bus in Sihanoukville in yet more rain (it's just at the end of the rainy season here), and looked around for the transport that we'd arranged to get us to our hotel, the Mealy Chenda, another in the Smiley family.

A grinning chap greeted us, holding up a sign saying 'Mister Dave Elioo' which we decided couldn't be for anyone but us, and we followed him happily to his transport...and then stared at it. We were presented with two motorbikes, which we later found out are pretty much the only form of transport around here. We had a quiet debate between ourselves, but decided that we didn't have much choice - so (and sorry moms!), we climbed on the back of one each, bags and all. By now we were totally drenched, and pretty underdressed for the weather, let alone to ride on the back of motorbikes! There were no helmets in sight, and considering the fact that neither of us could see a thing once we got going as the rain was so hard, we have no idea how the drivers managed, although they seemed to think it was very funny and were quite relaxed. We held on tight and mentally promised the drivers huge tips for our safe delivery, which we are happy to confirm was about ten minutes later.

The guesthouse was lovely; well decorated, clean, comfortable and with tv and a balcony all for $8 a night (although once we discovered the hot shower would only work on cold, this was reduced to $6). Feeling pretty pleased with ourselves for surviving our earlier ordeal, we took a walk to the nearest beach, at the bottom of Victory Hill, and taking advantage of some sunshine, inserted ourselves into the nearest beach loungers and ordered banana smoothies to watch the sun go down with.

That evening, we ventured out for dinner, having spotted a whole road full of bars and restaurants on our earlier reconnaisance. However, we soon had the creepy feeling that it wasn't our scene - the bars were full of Khmer girls, working hard to entice middle-aged western men into drinking in them, and possibly more - not a backpacker or similarly aged couple to be seen... although it did help to explain the sign on our hotel door, that prostitutes were only acceptable providing they were over 18...

Unfortunately, it turned out that our Lonely Planet was a bit out of date on this score, and that the backpacker scene had moved on to the neighbouring Occheteaul beach, leaving Victory Beach for less tasteful things... we explained our problem to the guesthouse, who were very apologetic - it's bad for their business too, as couples and young people won't stay there any more (they could have told us!!), and made plans to move on first thing the following morning.

We relocated to the Markara Guesthouse the next morning, braving the back of the motos again (although this time it was a far more sedate journey, at our insistence!). We checked into a comfortable room and went out to explore our new beach - this one was a stone's throw from our doorstep and even more beautiful than Victory Beach. Despite the minor setback of a night in creepsville, we both can't stop grinning - we didn't even know there were beaches here, let alone beautiful white ones with the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Thailand and zillions of palm trees and beach shacks serving lovely cold drinks and fresh fish barbecues all over the place!

There are loads of Cambodian families here enjoying the beach too - although those who aren't busy zooming around on jetskis in the same manner as they ride their motos (there's a guy here in the internet cafe with a huge gash in his head after getting run into by one whilst swimming), or getting thrown off blow-up banana boats, are busy swimming fully clothed - the scene is almost Victorian! We've spotted a chap in trousers, shirt and tanktop taking a stately dip, a few girls in tshirts and knickerbockers, loads of people in pyjamas (which is pretty much the national dress), as well as a couple of parades of monks taking the scenic route from wat to wat.

We originally planned to spend two or three nights here, just to get ourselves relaxed and ready to return to Phnom Penh... although at the time of writing this (24th November), we've been here ten days and only managed to motivate ourselves to move on by booking our next transport to Kampot for tomorrow so that we can't get out of it!

Not wishing to make you feel too jealous, or to labour the point (although I will), this place is lovely, clean, beautiful and simple. Most days have been spent with a lazy breakfast, then a meander over to and along the beach, stopping in one of the beachfront shacks that look appealing, and spending the rest of the day lazing on loungers or sofas, enjoying the sun, sea and sand.

We've both wound down for the first time in months, and I think we needed the break, although it hasn't all been relaxing - the beach is full of young kids trying to make a living from collecting cans, selling handmade bracelets and other trinkets, or selling fruit; plus there's a huge assortment of Cambodian adults either begging, selling books or offering massages, manicures and pedicures, and even leg and eyebrow threading. Its difficult to say no - either because they're so persuasive, so sweet or because they have limbs missing following landmine explosions.

Dave says that I have 'spending fingers', attested by my growing collection of cotton bracelets, glass rings, beaded necklaces and books about the Khmer Rouge... although he doesn't really mind - we're both a bit blown away by the affection of the children and the atmosphere of the beach. We've also treated ourselves to full body massages, and I've had a manicure, pedicure, and the ridiculously time consuming but effective aforementioned leg threading. Brilliant.

There's also a cinema here, although it was like nothing we expected - loads of tiered comfy sofas and a couple of cushioned balconies, and cheap beer and snacks on tap. We have enjoyed the delights of the Life of Brian, the Simpsons Movie and Sideways in air conditioned comfort!

Yesterday afternoon was whiled away teaching a couple of the beach kids how to make superior paper aeroplanes, before retiring to the beach bar nearest to our hotel (you'll see why this was strategically done in a second) - for happy hour cocktails... 75p each for several strong black russians, and we both wobbled back merrily the short distance to the guesthouse a few hours later.

Tonight is our last evening here in Sihanoukville, and we're planning to attend the full moon party this evening before moving on in the morning to Kampot. People have been practicing with fire poi and batons on the beach all week, so we're looking forward to a memorable party with some good music, cheap drink and tasty barbecued seafood...