The potential hum-drum of an evening in Nablus where there are no bars or cafes open beyond a certain time (about 8pm) was interrupted by an unexpected invitation upstairs.Let me explain something of the building I am living in. It is a block of apartments known by name in Nablus, as it tends to house the upper strata of society here. We are fortunate to live here as the neighbours are very relaxed and don't really seem to care too much that a bunch of foreigne...

The first thing to notice upon my arrival back in Nablus is something that has shaken me to the very core. They moved the fruit and vegetable market. I am at a loss as to what to do. I thought it best, upon this discovery to leave Nablus as soon as possible and clear my head in order to try and cope with this traumatic discover. So, south I headed. The weekend was spent pleasantly amongst Ahmad's extended family. Being foreign my presence was naturally enterta...

fruit on the ceiling and sacriligeous sweet shops The village of Somara is five minute's taxi from nablus centre. There is a checkpoint which is normally manned, though when I went last week I managed to sneak through as everyone was apparently on a coffee break. together. I went ostensibly to play a few trad tunes with Danny and Stuart, though ended up for much of the evening being shown the random fruity decorative hangings inside people's houses which they pu...

Yesterday we went to a village outside of Nablus called Zaweta. fortunately most of it was downhill as we had taken the risk of hiring bikes to take us out there. Let me put this in perspective: I have seen approximately two people riding bicycles since I arrive here almost a month ago. Plus traffic laws seem to be taken as things significantly less than guidelines out here, so I was feeling a little apprehensive about this entire endeavour, not in the least beca...

a birthday, mashkote and 'brova'. Mashkote is Salah's nephew. Every time I see him we practise blowing kisses to one another. He is at the dangerous toddler stage where he just wreaks havoc everywhere he goes. At the moment blowing kisses involves blowing raspberries into his hand and then dangling it in my direction, grinning all the while. Apparently I look a lot like him when I grin. I don't quite know how to take this... At the centre we are preparing for m...