We were both looking forward to this bit of the trip - an overnight cruise in Halong Bay. Everyone's seen the iconic images and it didn't disappoint, even though there were hundreds of similar tourist boats. Our cabin was wood panelled, with bed and shower, so we were happy, and there was wine on board! It was a major logistical operation to get onto the boat however. They come back and the previous tenants leave the boat in the middle of the river. Having checked out of the cabins earlier they have been cleaned and the beds remade before reaching port. The tender ferries the old tenants off, other tenders collect the rubbish, refuel the boat, and load supplies. We were then transferred on, all within an hour!
So, off we go, chugging out into the bay. Different boats take different routes, just as well really as there was a steady stream of boats leaving the port. My overriding memory of this stage was the smell of diesel fumes. The boats are old and belch out thick black fumes - its a UNESCO World Heritage site but no-one seems to worry about pollution. There was rubbish floating in the bay too, a great shame.
However, once in amongst the limestone karsts, as they are called, the scenery is so breathtaking that you forget about the ethics of it all and just boggle at the scenery. We sat on deck just mesmerised. Lunch was just as amazing, spring rolls, crab, clams and a whole seabass! Then a tender ride to view monkeys and land on, what looked like, a man-made beach. A climb to the top, or a swim in the bay?!! We chose well!! That evening we were entertained with magic tricks and squid fishing, before heading for bed early. Sensible (unusual for us) as Tai Chi was at 6:30am followed by breakfast.
A visit to the Sung Sot caves was next on the agenda. 3 huge chambers, lit with 'atmospheric' neon lights. We followed the slow snake of people up 160 steps, through the caves and down 160 steps. No 'keep off' signs so people were clambering up rocks to get the best pictures - sad, as damage will inevitably occur, but amazing rock formations to see. Then back to the boat for spring roll making session -yum!!
So, what did we make of the whole experience? Couldn't fault the cruise and crew, so glad we have seen the spectacular bay but sort of worried about how it will end up if the pollution is not addressed. There is so much building going on around the port that the whole experience may just become too touristy to be pleasurable in the near future!