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Well the overnight sleeper bus would have been the most luxurious bus journey I had ever taken had it not been for the fact that they insisted on putting on the heating, taking the inside temperature up to a whopping 29 degrees celcius. I'd like to challenge anyone to try and sleep in that, especially with a thick cold and sore throat! But on the positive side we did have loads of leg room and reclining seats and a film to watch 'Lovely Bones' (dubbed in Spanish of course) and hostess service bringing us tea etc. As a result the 10 hr journey passed relatively quickly and we arrived at 6.30am in Puerto Maldonado bus station where we were met by our guide (Freddie) from the Bello Horizonte Lodge. After stocking up on some supplies (lots of mineral water and a poncho for me) we had a quick breakfast before making the 50 minute journey to the lodge. Scott had visited the same place in 2006 and was amazed to see some changes to the town and access route. Previously it had been dirt track all the way and via a ferry to cross the river - but recently a huge bridge has been installed and bar the last 6km the route is now all tarmac road. Unfortunately on the main road we passed a chap who had come off his motorbike. He was covered in blood and I think had broken his jaw but was alert and talking. I felt a bit helpless to get involved - firstly not speaking any spanish or ketchwa and secondly that I was somewhat reluctant to examine him without any gloves given the amount of blood. Nonetheless we tried to keep him calm and waited until help arrived. Apparently no ambulances were available so a 4 x 4 police car arrived. So much to stabilising his neck and back - no stretchers or neck supports here - he was simply lifted by 4 men into the back of the car. Hopefully he'll be ok.
Shortly after we turned off the main road and began our drive into the jungle. The road became narrower and the foliage thicker but eventually we arrived in a clearing where we were met by a welcome sight - our little log type cabin with beds to catch up on some sleep! The site of the lodge is spectacular on an escarpment overlooking primary rainforest canopy. Our room has its own balcony with hammock and attached bathroom which is a relief as I won't have to head outside in the night - but none the less it is far from enclosed and I've already seen a little lizard run across the floor! Think I'll be checking my boots for creepy crawlies before I put them on here! There's also a communal chill out room with a bar and sofas overlooking the forest and a separate restaurant area. We have luke warmish showers and electricity from 5.30pm til 10pm so pretty luxurious for being in the middle of the jungle!
After putting our bags away we were shown the 15minute walk through the jungle to the nearby spring water swimming pool - complete with tarantulas living in the roof of the changing rooms! Eeek - not sure I can persuade myself to use it...at least not today as the temperature is uncharacteristically cool/mild - prob due to the humidity breaking after heavy rainfall this morning. I then had a quick shower and a 1 hr power nap before we were served a delicious lunch of chicken and brazil nut curry (the brazil nuts are grown right here by the lodge), rice and roasted plantain.
Scott and I were then taken off by our guide for the afternoon to do our first jungle trek. It was very civilised really - a slow amble taking in any wildlife to be seen. The sounds coming from the canopy were amazing - I felt like I was on the film set of Apocolypto! Apparently there are jaguars and anteaters and monkeys around us although they are rarely seen. Instead we saw an amazing array of insects/bugs, butterflies, spiders, birds including a falcon and vulture and green parakeets - as well as some spectacular plants and trees, including many which are the original source of the medicines I prescribe back home! Scott took great delight in using his Nikon with ridiculously huge zoom lense to get some great shots.
As I write this we are back at the lodge and I'm sitting out on he balcony listening to the sounds of the rainforest - it is incredibly peaceful. The mosquitoes are just starting to close in so I'm hoping the deet I'm plastered in will do its job. Dinner at 6.30 and then probably an early night is on the cards as we have a 6.30am start tomorrow. We have been lucky today as it has just been the 2 of us here with the guide, but a group of 4 French have just arrived so I think we will be with them tomorrow - and then a group of 16 further people arrive tomorrow! However I think we will be guided separate to them or I doubt we'll see much wildlife!
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