Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to the woods we go, with a ruck sac full of food and an upbeat mood, hi ho, hi ho, hi ho, hi ho, hi ho, hi ho. Today is warm and sunny - shorts and walking boots the uniform for the day. We set off in a small group on the bus to the Park National Huerquehue - 'The Messenger Place' in English. Our group consisted of Duncan (English), Bodo & Annika (German), Naomi (Swiss) and Ju & me (English). Everyone seemed upbeat after a days rest from the Volcano walk, although Naomi had walked it yesterday. We had a basic map and an organised route to follow in the park. Most of the tracks were still inaccessible so the only option was to do a 24km route to the three lakes.

The first section of the walk was easy and relaxing. This was followed by an exhausting 2 hour accent up over the mountain. Our legs still tired from the Volcano climb we pressed on. The scenery was a pleasure on the eye - the wood was quiet and there weren't too many annoying tourists. Along the route we came across viewing points which allowed us to look back over the first lake with Villarrica in the background. We huddled together munching on our sandwiches and marvelled at our achievement of managing to ascend her. Ju managed to throw another food strop because I forgot to pack the energy bars - I was pretty sure we would survive without them given our expanded waist lines.

We pressed on and found the second lake after we had passed over the crest of the mountain. We were now high up in the thawing snow line. The paths were a sticky muddy mess - but this was no match for my Meindls as I ploughed on. My boots were starting to earn their reputation - it was well worth taking a second mortgage to buy them. The temperature in the woods was pretty hot. I was sure I was sweating more fluid than I was taking on board, but there's only so much water you can carry. The second lake was stunning but not as much as the third which was truly beautiful. We sat and had lunch together and admired the pretty vista, it almost looked fake.

On the way back I broke off from the group as they tip toed around the mud on the paths. It was nice to get away from Ju's bossy nagging as I enjoyed the piece and quiet of the woods. I descended quite quickly down the narrow path back to the valley below. Luckily I got to a small snack bar before the other hoards of tourists. I enjoyed a lovely home cooked blackberry pie and a bottle of diet coke. The others soon caught up and managed to buy the last of the pie. Ju seemed more attentive and had snapped out of her competitive Pates frame of mind. We had both talked the other day to another married couple and compared travel and relationship tales. We agreed with them that travelling 24/7 with your partner really tests a relationship - and in our case brings you closer together. It also makes light of all the trivial things you bicker about back home - most of it seems so irrelevant now.

Later that evening tired and drained we managed to muster enough energy to pop out with Annika and Bodoo for my birthday meal. We all enjoyed an American style hamburger which was MASSIVE. Obviously this was accompanied by a few beers. On the way home we saw the glow from lava at the top of Vallarrica Volcano - what an eerie sight! Shattered we retired to bed in the knowledge that it was going to be my birthday tomorrow! 39 Gulp!