Fremantle was the next port of call. The caravan park is about 3km from Fremantle city so I broke out the treddly and rode into town. The town has kept its old buildings and has an interesting feel to it(around the CBD at least). It's much like Hobart except warmer. The only place I can remember from my previous visits to Fremantle is the Sail & Anchor hotel. I dropped in for a beer which was interesting as I think all the beers on tap are brewed locally in Fremantle. The Thai food (Phad Thai I think it was called) next door wasn't bad either.

The ride back to the caravan park was in the dark and this must have caused my disorientation (not the beers) as I ended up lost in a quiet new housing development area which wasn't marked on my map. My only real concern I had with this was that I might not make it back to the camper in time for Big Brother. I am sadly, once again, watching this crappy, pathetic show. (I did make it back in time and it was still crap).

I had the next day to spend in Fremantle so I had to think of something to look at. On an impulse, I ended up going to the Fremantle gaol. I hadn't heard anything about it before so I didn't know what to expect. I found out when I got there that they have various tours running including tours of the underground tunnels that run under Fremantle. I ended going on the "doing time" tour as it offered a general tour of the gaol and it was the next tour to start. The tour guide was an Irish bloke with a sense of humour to match the accent. I don't know if the guide had actually done any time at the gaol himself or not but it would explain his in depth knowledge of life as a prisoner in the gaol. I found his explanations, demonstrations and stories of individual prisoners gave a quite foreboding, grim and uncomfortable feeling at times but it was also ghoulishly fascinating. Actually walking in and going through how a prisoner was processed into the gaol, what their daily routine was, how they would have been feeling and how they were punished was fascinating.

Perth now has a new modern prison elsewhere as Fremantle gaol was shut down in 1991. What I found remarkable was that the prisoner's cells didn't have any toilets or sinks in them for the entire life of the jail. The prisoners were locked in the small cells from about 4.15pm to about 7.30am with only a bucket to do their business in. This would not have been pleasant at all in the middle of summer with a prison full of angry men and you were in for life. I'm no expert in prisons but I believe most Western prisons have plumbing these days. It really didn't seem like a holiday camp.

I did enjoy the final part of the tour into the solitary confinement area where the condemned prisoner was sent (to cell no.1 to be precise). Fremantle had 44 official hangings (43 men and 1 woman) the last being in 1964. Most executions took place on a Monday morning when the Fremantle clock struck 8. The condemned man would have had his last meal, a cigarette and would have been offered a tot of brandy (for courage). He would have also had access to the Prison chaplain if he wished. He was then handcuffed, had a hood placed over his head and walked the short distance to the gallows just after the town clock had stopped ringing. The whole prison would be silent as all inside knew what was about to occur. It was quite eerie to do this same short walk to the gallows and be confronted by the noose as you enter the room. The man was placed on the trapdoor and the noose placed over his head. If he fainted, he was sat on the chair and hanged while he was still passed out. The last thing the condemned would hear was the trap door lever crashing opened. The sound of the man being hanged could also be heard around the prison. The man was hanged until there was no sign of life (usually about 3 minutes) and then for about 3 more minutes. The body was then lowered onto a waiting stretcher below and taken away by a waiting hearse. By 10 past eight it was all over. The tour group I was with had a sombre mood by this stage of proceedings. However, one clown did ask the guide if any these men re-offended.

After a Cappuccino on the Cappuccino strip in Fremantle I pedalled over to the WA Maritime museum for a look. Another interesting collection of maritime memorabilia with the best exhibit being the fully rigged Australia II.

That night I camped on the road out the front of the B.'s house in Joondalup. The lucky devils were off to Broome on Saturday so I was glad I caught up with them when I did. We all went out for Fish and chips and a wine. Good to catch up again.

The next day I backtracked down to Perth for the day. I parked in Kings Park and rode the pushbike into the city and along the Swan River. I scored a very pleasant calm day too which made this pleasant city all the more pleasanter.

I didn't wish to linger to long as I was headed even further south that day and the traffic starts building up from 3pm. I spent the next 3 nights camped in the M.'s driveway in Warnbro. Warnbro is about 40km south of Perth close to Rockingham. There is a lot of building activity going on around Perth driven apparently by the mining boom that is going on. Much beer was drunk and bulls*** spoke that night so the next day was rather slow and low key. The two youngest kids seemed to like being in the camper which was fine as I enjoyed the novelty of being in a house during the day.

I got driven around the sights of Rockingham which was good as I didn't have to drive and could have a look around. I had been here in 2003 so I could see the change in a relatively short period of time.

The next day, after watching the youngest playing 4 year old soccer (quite amusing really) there was a family outing to a local animal park. This was a rather eclectic collection of beasts but it was good to be able to get up to most of the animals and be able to pat and feed them.

After making my farewells on Monday, I then headed north once again but this time I tried to hug the coast as much as I could. I don't really like driving on the freeways as there's nothing much to look at and the traffic is generally heavier than other roads. I was planning on finding a place to surf that day and Cottesloe did have some nice looking small waves but it was quite crowded even on a Monday morning so I didn't bother. I hope I can get a surf in soon? However, I did have a look at quite a few pleasant looking beaches along the way before leaving the city behind. I didn't turn around and head south again so that is all I can tell you of my stay in Perth. Until next time, Cheers!