27 June - India - Agra Up predawn for our train to Agra. The train stations are one of the most unhygienic places on the planet so it's not good place to linger .... So a universal groan goes up as the train is delayed.... Eventually the train arrives & we get on .... But there are people lying in our seats and they won't move until Bhagi comes along & after much talking gets them to move. It's a sleeper train so there are people & stuff everywhere.....

26 June - India - Orchha After a rough night I have to pass on the morning activities so send R off to report back. Am starting to feel better so hopefully will be able to get to the cooking class this afternoon. This town has a population of around 10,000 people & is over endowed with palaces & temples dotted along the riverside. The highlight of Orchha is the large, well preserved cenotaphs of the Bundela kings. As the day progresses I feel ok en...

25 June - India - Orchha We pulled into our station round 7.30am & rather pale bedraggled bunch of travellers traipsed out to the waiting tuk tuks. After a white knuckle 45 min drive we arrive at the hotel. It's called Bundelkhand riverside hotel. It's a heritage property as its an old Mharahaj Palace & it's beautiful. Full of character & charm. We have riverside rooms, there are extensive gardens & spacious rooms with lovely showers. What par...

24 June - India - Varanasi - overnight train to Orchha It's not much cooler as we head down to the river at 5am. Our numbers are depleted due to illness. The same boat with same crew awaits. We see the ghats slowly come alive, the street kids & people stretching awake, rolling up their sacks & undertaking their ablutions .... Yes all !!!! in the river. The sun rises in a rosy glow, there is a much more relaxed feel about & the manic frenzy of last n...

23 June - India - Varanasi - Ganges Predawn bell ringing from a nearby temple across the river got us all awake. It was a relief to get up ... We were brought early morning masala tea, our tents were dismantled & packed away, breakfast was served & by 7am we were back on the river heading towards Varanasi. The day was hotter than yesterday & so still. The oarsman were having a hard time & we were struggling with the heat. We had to lie down to ba...