Hello,

Since our last update we have travelled to Chile and got a bit more serious on the adventure side of things. We crossed over from Bariloche to Osorno during the day through the mountains amidst the most incredible scenery we had seen yet. Due to various reasons we didn´t stay in Osorno but went a few hours south the port town of Puerto Montt for one night. This was probably the worst experience of the trip yet. We stayed in Hostel Modelo which was exceedingly generous with their description on the booking website we used. The room was tiny and extremely dirty as was the bathroom and we ended up getting over charged. Do not stay here or in Puerto Montt at all. Instead get a bus to Osorno and change to Pucon, the whole trip would probably take about 10 hours.

Anyhow, we got an early bus the next day to Pucon in the Lake District and have been staying here for four nights. We originally wanted to come here because of the awesome white-water rafting which we promptly did on the second day. It was incredible, cheap and extremely fun. Neither of us fell into the freezing water but I got pretty soaked at the front and Alex almost flipped out the back a few times. We finished the excursion with a shot of Pisco which is the Chilaen equivalent of Buckfast, but nicer.

Whilst travelling through Argentina we had heard a lot of talk about climbing the Villaricca Volcano just outside Pucon and sure enough when we got here it was the main excursion everyone was doing. It had been described in a lot of different ways, either the most difficult thing they had ever done in their life and others who just couldn´t make the summit, so making up our mind was challenging but in the end we went for it. We must point out that the reasons are that it is an active volcano where you can see it blowing out smoke on a clear day. The lower quarter of the slopes are red ski runs in the winter let alone the top three quarters that usually require crampons and other technical equiptment as the angles seem to not be far off 90 degrees at points. (unfortunately the photos don´t do justice as we couldn´t hold cameras at technical points. At this time of year it is still covered with snow so the tour company give you all the equipment you need like snow boots, helmet and an ice pick for if you fall plus special clothing - and a backpack to carry it in. The day we went was perfect, in fact it was perfectly clear with blue sky and a very hot sun even at our at 7am start. Most days the tours get two ski lifts (the first third) take you up past the melting snow and scree that turned out to be one of the hardest sections of the climb. Of course when we go it is a Sunday and the family that run the lifts were closed. Most people always take the lifts except real climmers, so it´s even more amazing we actually attempted the maximum climb. This increased the estimated climb time to 5 to 7 hours for 2800 metres, but we did it in 5 and a hlaf hours! It was the most physical and mentally challenge Ive ever done (Alex). The altitude makes you disorientated and wih the sun so strong you strugle to see the snow and where to walk. You walk in a slow line desperately trying to not misplace your foot which would send you hundreds of metres down the sheer ice and snow. The last hour was a struggle but the guides were brilliant at psyching you up. When we made it to the top the view from the top was indescribable as was the inside of the crater, which was still smoking and was yellow wioth sulphur. Sometimes lava bubbles up but not that day! At this point we realised how cold we were and put on all the kit we had. Not really looking forward to a walk down the slope our tour guides told us why we had been carrying a dubious looking plastic seat. For the next hour we slid down most of the 2800 metres, if there is a more perfect analagy of travelling by the seat of your pants then please let me know. Human bobsleighs just about brings the right image up. Alex was extremly and I had to get off the slope a number of times to let her past. Needless to say this was the most fun we had had on the trip so far. This whole day was topped off with a beer at the tour office with the rest of the climbers. We highly recommend this particular tour company (Aquaventura) on Palguin street. They gave us the most amazing expericence.

We are leaving Pucon today with very sore muscles to go to Valparaiso which is West of Santiago on the coast.

Love as always x