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Sorrento - 8-10 May
Day 4 -
I was up early to catch the 540 train to Napoli! Not much happening at that time of the morning as it was still dark - so moved quick in case there were any crazies out but none to be seen!
Caught the train just fine and arrived Napoli (Naples) about 830. I followed the signs to the 'Circumvensia', the local train that would take me to Pompeii.
Quick cornetto (croissant) and espresso el banco (consuming my goodies at the counter which makes it half the price!), then trotted down to the platform. Once there I met day trippers from a cruise line, Randy and his dad BJ (get your mind out of the gutter! It's short for 'Billy Jack'!), from Memphis Tenesee!
We hopped on the first train only to realise we were on the wrong one!!! Aah it's all part of the adventure hey! Quick non English conversation with the locals, next train and we were on the right path!
I ditched my back pack and the Americanos once we got to Pompeii ... The ruins were amazing with a whole city preserved but with it being such a warm day, my dodgy strained ankle from the damn cobblestones, and about a zillion points to listen to on the audio guide along with a dodgy map (at one point I walked into suburbia and a local had to yell out to me and tell me to go back!) - I was over it in a couple of hours!
Onward to Sorrento I arrived about 4pm and walked what was supposed to be the 800 meters to my hostel (more like 2kms?!) on my dodgy ankle ... Hungry, frustrated but really liking to look of Sorrento which was not really the concrete jungle Id been told it would be but more like a Hastings St at Noosa with cute 'ristorantas' and 'paticierras' down cute cobblestone back streets.
After a much needed shower to wash of the Pompei dust and sweat I headed for the waterfront to enjoy the views then dinner at a quaint local restaurant followed by desert at one of the patisseries! Food was still not amazing like I expected of Italy but was nice and the vino was good!
Back at the hostel I met my 5 other dorm buddies who were sharing what was really just a hotel room with me at Ulisse Hostel. Rachel & Jessica from Canada, Diana from Singapore, Kim ??? from South Korea, and (I think it was) Tanya from France.
Day 5 - Chaos ensued in the morning with 6 girls in one room and I revised my opinion of the night before that they were all nice when I experienced lengthy delays for the bathroom.
I finally got to the ferry terminal about 930 and after the first ferry to Capri was cancelled, I waited again ... In hindsight I note there is a lot of queuing and waiting in Italy and you really can't be set on anything as things often don't work out as planned!!! I was still easing into holiday mode so finding the queues, crowds and waiting all very frustrating!!!
Once at Capri (1030) I took a 1 hour boat trip (18€) round the island. It was really lovely to see it by water and we stopped at the blue grotto where we had a lengthy wait to have the opportunity to transfer to a row boat (13€) to see inside the cave. It was truly magical in there and a vivid blue so maybe worth it for the few minutes we were inside!
We got back about 2pm (1 hour tour?!) at which point I was starved so headed up to Ana Capri by bus. Magic views from the windows but was surprised there were no views from the little town? I had a nice lunch on a trattoria off the beaten track then headed up the chair lift to Salerno.
Amazing views of the whole island so enjoyed some gelato at the cafe then headed back down to Ana Capri. Checked out Villa Michele which was a home of deceased French man who'd made a name for himself on Capri and who'd built a gorgeous house with stunning views!
Stupidly decided to walk down to Capri town (bad ankle getting worse!) but instead missed it entirely and ended up at the port! Quick beverage then on the last boat (630pm) back to Sorrento!
It was a lovely day trip but all in all felt very rushed and there was plenty more to see!
Dinner at what was Pizza de Franco supposedly best pizza in Sorrento and was ok.
Back at the hostel I met Anna from Austria who spent 5 months at bracken ridge high 10 years ago!!!
Day 6 - Next morning I was up early and out before the competition for the bathrooms started! Unfortunately being Sunday first bus to Amalfi wasn't until 830 so had time to kill and ended up enjoying the best cornetto yet with 'nut cream' and espresso while sitting on the sidewalk next to a couple of old locals reading their paper. I had a chat with the owner which I understood limited of as he didn't speak English and I don't speak Italian! Something about other australians who worked there ... He wouldn't let me pay though and said to come back the next day which was very sweet of him and with a cornetto that good I was up for it!!!
Riding the Sita Bus to Amalfi was an attraction in itself! I managed a window seat overlooking the ocean so got to experience seeing the bus wind around the narrow bends coming dangerously close to the edge and other cars and bikes!!!
Once at Amalfi I caught a city sightseeing bus to Ravello and got chatting to a local girl who has had 2 scooter accidents this year from cars hitting her! I can now see why they said if you rent one you've got a death wish!
It was quite overcast when I was at Ravello but beautiful and I really should have stayed longer and enjoyed exploring the open houses with the amazing views. Instead o caught a local bus back down to Amalfi for lunch then another bus to Positano for more photos, food, shopping - done!
I enjoyed riding the buses as it was good social interaction as would get chatting to other tourists although noting not all nationalities are friendly!!!
Waited a frustrating hour for my bus back to Sorrento - late, then we couldn't all fit on then took an hour to get back!!!
My last dinner in Sorrento, another only average meal :-(
Day 7 - On my last morning I went to stop at the cafe to pay for my breakfast from the day before and get another cornetto but I couldn't find it or it wasn't open?! I felt bad but how nice of him to give it to me free! :-)
Once I arrived at Napoli centrale I left my bag at the 'deposit bagglio' and headed for the metro line 2 heading for The museum - in my usual form of this trip I took the train in the wrong direction! Half an hour later I was at the right station then getting directions from locals to the museum!
The museum was enjoyable as connected the dots with what id seen at Pompeii - it contained the mosaics, paintings and furniture removed from the site ... Also a'secret room' with the erotic paintings and sculptures found at the site that back in the 1600s they were initially embarrassed of!
I needn't have got the audio guide (all up 13€) and left after a couple of hours in search of Pizzeria Da Michelle after reccomendations of friends and lonely planet ... After wandering in circles for half an hour and just about to give up I found it!!!
This is where the Eat, Pray, Love pizza scene was filmed an supposed to be the best pizza in Naples ... And I liked it! Choices are margherita or marinara and I chose the first. I think what made it different was the flour in the base was tasty - maybe wholemeal and wood fired ... Then the tomato base was so runny! Then mozzarella and just a couple of basil leaves. It was thin but huge!
They seated me at a table with other random local sand we all managed to make a good dent in them!
When I left despite there being no queue when I arrived the crowds were 20 people deep!!!
From there I collected my 'left luggage' (6€) and bought a very expensive ticket to Firenze (Florence-68€).
It was a relaxing journey watching a movie on my phone with no fear of flat battery thanks the the electricity outputs they provide!
Sent from my iPhone
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