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We had been looking forward to travelling the rugged coastline of the Big Sur since Ollie drove through here alone in 2006. He had told Shay, on his phone call home that he wished she was with him to enjoy this natural beauty and made a promise to himself and Shay that they would return someday. It was then that the seed was planted, which was now was blossoming into this great adventure.
On route to the Big Sur, we made a short pit stop in Monterrey. Shay's father, Ken, is a big fan of the author, John Steinbeck, so we wanted to stop by the street Cannery Row to get him a postcard and take a look around. Back in the day Cannery Row was a thriving sardine canning industry, today it's quite a tourist trap which has cashed in on John Steinbeck's novel 'Cannery Row'. The streets are lined with souvenir shops, restaurants and tributes to the author.
Following the coast from Monterrey, we found ourselves heading towards the scenic '17 Mile Drive' which leads to the town of Carmel. A little too late we realised that there was a fee of US$10 for the pleasure of this journey. The drive itself it totally worth the entrance fee but we would recommend giving yourself a good 2 to 3 hours to make sure you make the most of it. Unfortunately for us, by the time we entered '17 Mile Drive', it was getting late and we were hoping to get to the northern end of the Big Sur by nightfall.
The Big Sur
The Big Sur is an amazing 130 mile stretch of coastline with leafy redwood forests, jaw-dropping jagged cliffs and pounding coastline. The road is narrow, steep and windy so the going is very slow. Looking out to the horizon, there is a strong possibility that you will see a migrating whale. A few times in the far distance we saw whales blowing water and air up as they surfaced, and we also manage to spy a couple of dolphins frolicking in the surf.
Our first night was spent in the redwood forests at the Big Sur State Campground. We arrived in the dark so we had no idea on the orientation of the place and found ourselves getting lost trying to find the truck on many an occasion that evening. The next morning we were greeted with a tranquil forest setting, with huge redwood trees and a babbling stream right next to our camp.
As we continue south the lush redwood forests give way for more barren, rocky terrain. The forest fires from 2008 were still very noticeable with charred vegetation in the mountains and a lot of hikes and State Parks still closed to the public. We stopped to walk down to Partington Cove, which is a steep track down to the coast. There is a tunnel which leads to a secluded cove with crystal clear blue water which was very inviting on a scorching hot day.
Our next campsite is the complete opposite to the Redwood Forest. Kirk Creek is located on a sunny bluff. We like the laid back approach to camping here. You just campsite, fill out the registration form, seal it up in an envelope along with the fee and deliver into mailbox. After getting ourselves set up we took a stroll to explore our surroundings. We discovered a steep track down to the beach and from here we watched the waves crashing onto the rocks while the sun set on the horizon. Bliss!
At One with Nature
The next day we continued down the coast making a surf call at Sand Dollar Beach and many a photo stop along the rocky coastline. We walked down to a quiet beach by Piedras Blancas to see the huge colony of elephant seals. At over two tons, these beasts are heavier than our truck but surprisingly nimble along the sand, so we were keen to keep a little distance between us. The seals were quite entertaining. The bulls lumbered around the beach grunting, trying to prove their manliness by picking fights and puffing themselves up. All noise and no action, a typical male trait!
Ollie, being a bird man, had noticed some scavenger birds, big eagle like birds with red featherless heads. They were circling above the seals so we decided to investigate. We could smell the reason before we saw it, on the beach there was the rotting carcass of a seal and the birds were feasting on its flesh. We were loving being the audience to natures show and seeing these wild animals in their daily routines.
We spent our final evening on the Pacific coast in a beautiful campsite in Morro Bay State Park. Shay had read a recommendation in the bible (Lonely Planet guide) of a quaint seafood restaurant in town with very impressive reviews. With mouths watering we made our way to Giovanni's for some Fish, Calamari and creamy Clam Chowder. The restaurant is right on the harbour, in the shadow of Morro Rock. It has outdoor patio seating so you eat your food with an audience of over friendly seagulls and pelicans. They literally came and sat on our table! We definitely recommend Giovanni's if anyone is ever in Morro Bay and is hanging out for some cheap, fresh seafood with the seabirds!
Adapting to the American Truck
The driving of the truck with a camper on the back is a whole new experience. Ollie was starting to get used to it, but it still felt a little awkward. Being used to the Caravelle (our VW van) the truck and camper could feel very unsteady, sometimes swaying enough to feel like it may tip sideways on an uneven surface. It's also hard to have the complete overview in the mirrors, as the sides of the camper are wider than the truck itself. 4-wheel driving on the rough Baja roads will be an interesting chapter.
Being used to a manual transmission, Ollie is also struggling to come to terms with an automatic. The truck had its transmission rebuilt 10'000 miles ago, and it shifts fine but sometimes it feels a bit late. Ollie is unsure whether it's just him, used to being in control of gear changes, or an issue with the truck. The size of the truck can also be a disadvantage, it was easy to squeeze into small spaces in the Velle and not so obvious when it came to sneaky roadside camping. But despite these things we are beginning to feel the love for the truck, every day the Green Lady is winning our hearts over, not an easy thing to achieve with two staunch VW enthusiasts.
So, we are now making our way east, away from the surf and sand, and into the hot parched desert. Our destination, Las Vegas!
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