We boarded the ferry for Kangaroo Island at Cape Jervis and made the 50 minute crossing to another time and place. KI has only about 4000 inhabitants but it is the third largest island in Australia. Within 5 minutes of driving off at Penneshaw we were alone. We drove on a sealed road for about an hour and then onto a dirt road which was bumpy and dusty. After a short while we came upon a Heath Goanna-lizardy creature-warming himself up on the road. They have no way at all of controlling their body temperature except by being in the sun or the shade. Half an hour later we arrived at Sky House. Perched at the top of a deserted hill overlooking Snellings Bay on the remote north coast of the island, this was like nothing we had ever seen before. It had a GPS number as an address and this sat by the phone in case of an emergency.

Perry showed us round, told us we wouldn't need a key as nobody ever came near and left us to total silence with a view that was just too good to be true. The house was incredible but it wasn't just the fittings. When I booked it I was irritated by being asked what I saw as whacky questions about my loves and wishes. Now all was revealed because there was a personal CD made up for us with the most perfect music on it but most of which we had never heard. It was exactly what we would want to listen to if we'd known it existed. There was an incense burner with our favourite smells ready and waiting. 3 large drawers were full of amazing vinyl albums with everything from Getz to Aretha Franklin. A huge telescope pointed to the sky ready for the treat that we were to experience later.

A quick rain shower left two rainbows for us to look at over dinner. Then we cosied up with all our goodies and relaxed. Before bed we went out to look at the stars and it was breathtaking. We could see whole galaxies even without the telescope.

The next morning we had breakfast overlooking the bay and then drove to the other end of the island to Flinders Chase NP. The seals and coast and lighthouse and Remakable Rocks just left us speechless. It was beautiful. We spent hours meandering around. When we got back to the house a kangaroo was having a snack in our 'garden'. He was quite happy for us to stand and watch him. We saw wallabies as well. In the evening we went down the track to the beach and took a stroll-just us.

The next day we walked locally and explored the river and coves. It was a tiny piece of heaven with teeming wildlife and reminded us a little of the Galapagos except that we were pretty much alone apart from a couple of fishermen. That evening I picked mulberries for dinner from a wild bush in which sat a wallaby wondering why his peace had been disturbed, We saw lots of kangaroos as the sun went down.

At 5.30 am I awoke to see the window-glass, wood and stone-all glowing bright red. I crept out of bed and onto the patio to see such a brilliant but sadly transient sunrise. I grabbed a camera and took a photo but by the time I went to wake Paul it had gone..... and sadly so were we not long after. I could hardly bear to leave but know that if all is well we will be back to see the rest of the island that we only glimpsed as we passed by.

We're back in Nelson now for our last few weeks and I have to admit to feeling a little bit homesick. It came upon me quite by surprise and I'm grateful for a friend who didn't mind being called very late at night for no good reason at all. We hopped off to the Crusty Crab to help settle back and were given a huge marrow! NZ, you've got to love it.