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Well, we did it! It was an incredible experience from start to finish.
We met Katie and Matt off their flight at Queenstown airport and it was so good to see them aagin. We then spent a happy couple of days enjoying our second visit to this amazing town. We had a meal at Fergburgers before the track, and at the end too! Riding the luge at the top of the mountain was as brilliant as we all remembered. Ice cream featured heavily as well. We were the only patrons in a tiny cinema screen in Arrowtown where we sat on comfy sofas with cosy throws (well, actually, Paul sat on a throne as befitted his stature!). Saw 4 Lions which we all enjoyed.
We set off for the walk at 9am. Took a coach to Te Anau Downs where we got the boat to Glade Wharf to start the walk. The weather was glorious. After an exhausting 20 minute walk(!) we arrived at our first lodge. It was then that we realised how things were to be for, laid out ready, were scones and cream. Our rooms were lovely with comfy beds, hot showers and views to die for. The other people on the walk were great company but the guides were just amazing. They never stopped working to make sure that everything was as enjoyable as possible. We walked on our own and never felt 'herded'. They held 'footlove' clinics after dinner where they would tend your aching feet and dress any blisters, cuts ot grazes. A bit pampered or what??
The next day dawned sunny and warm and we loved every minute of our 10 mile walk through the Clinton Valley to our next lodge. Spectacular views were only bettered by it being so warm that we swam in the icy cold lake. The guides meet you at lunchtime with hot drinks!!They only told us after the swim about the eels!! It was wonderful.
After another lovely night's rest we woke to serious rain. This was the hardest day as we climbed up and over the Mackinnon Pass. We were soaked in minutes. It was too warm initially to wear a coat so we just got drenched. Visibility was poor but we enjoyed the beautiful alpine flowers. The zig-zag climb took about 4 hours but eventually we arrived at the top and felt a real sense of achievement. There was no view but again we were treated to hot drinks and words of encouragement. We changed into dry, warmer clothes and set off on the notorious descent. The poles I had borrowed were invaluable and the months of physio seemed to be paying off. The clouds cleared enough to give us quite spectacular views of the hundreds of waterfalls, none of which would have been there without the rain. After a couple of hours we arrived at a long, long flight of metal steps down the side of a waterfall and this was my undoing.The steps were just a bit too deep coupled with the fact that they had holes in them and so I couldn't use the poles. Sure enough, after about 20 minutes my knees were in agony. Eventually, even back on the rocky terrain with poles, I had to let the others go ahead and leave me to get there at my own snails pace. The last hour was torture but I made it. With encouragement from Paul we then went straight back out (without packs) to the one and a half hour side trip to see the Sutherland Falls, the 5th highest in the world. It was more of a climb than we had been led to believe and the descent was nearly the end for me but it was so wonderful that I'd have been sad not to have seen it. We completed the main walk by 3pm but the last couple through the door of the lodge arrived at about 7! The record ever on a guided walk was 2am!!
The next day was our last walk-13 miles. It started wet but dried up. After the efforts of the day before all of us except Katie had some problem. Paul was the worst because he had a toenail that threatened to come off and several blisters which he failed to declare at the 'footlove' clinic held by the guides the night before. He was in real pain all day. I was fine except for the few downhill sections and Matt had one sore knee which again only bothered him going downhill. Despite this we all made really good time and caught the first boat away from Sandfly Point at the end of the track.
Overall, we felt very pleased with our efforts. We came in at or under the estimated times (except for me on the big descent) and recovered really quickly after it was over.
Our final night was spent at the tiny town of Milford and we had a view of Mitre Peak from our rooms. There was such an amazing sunset that even the kitchen staff came out to take photos. Nobody had ever seen such a sight. We were very lucky. The next morning we had a boat trip on Milford Sound and the clouds and waterfalls were just about perfect. As we got off the boat the clouds moved in with a vengeance and nothing could be seen. We boarded the bus for Queenstown, happy, tired and full of memories. I looked around the coach half way there to see just about everybody dozing with contented looks on their faces.
Now we're back in Nelson and gearing up for a summer Christmas. We miss you all and wish you well. Whatever Christmas holds in store for you then please know that you're never far from our thoughts.
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