We have just returned to KK from Mulu National Park in Sarawak where there was no facility to update the blog so here we go…..

2 Oct: Set off to fly from KK to Mulu-both Malaysian Borneo. At bag drop we were told to take our packs over to a scanner across the hall and then bring them back; plenty of time to put into them anything we fancied! Then we had our hand luggage scanned and I had a bottle of water in it and the laptop. The water was ignored as was the sign saying laptops should be removed. At the gate the hand luggage was scanned again and nobody mentioned the water!

As we flew along the coast we saw endless oil rigs and pipe lines. This is a richer part of Borneo and this causes huge illegal immigration problems with neighbouring Indonesian Borneo. There is so much money around for a chosen few that gated communities are the biggest real estate market. The flight touched down at Miri in Sarawak and we couldn’t believe it when we had to get off to clear immigration-new boarding cards and new stamps in the passport all for a domestic flight.

As we descended into Mulu the extent of the deforestation was clear. Palm oil plants as far as the eye could see. The final descent flew low over the swanky resort that I hadn’t booked. We were put in the most ramshackle van I have ever seen to be taken to the National Park campground-I have to say that Paul was trying hard to hide his disappointment! Our room was very basic but clean and with its own bathroom so at 30 pound a night b and b we weren’t complaining. Had a meal at the tatty wooden hut that served as a café-it was delicious and cost about 8 pounds for the two of us to have 2 courses and a beer! Walking back to the room I felt something up my trousers. Ran back, ripped them off to find a huge bright green beetle hanging on for grim death. It took a while for Paul to dislodge it. Welcome to Mulu.

3 Oct: Up at 6.30 with the sounds of the jungle right outside the door. Took a longboat down the river to visit the first of the famous Mulu caves. Called at a local Penan village en route. They ignored us completely much to our relief. The children were brushing their teeth in the river and whole families were bathing and washing their hair also. It is a wonderful way of life. They have no ownership, everything is shared and the biggest sin in society is not to share. They never argue or shout or interrupt and they have no word for thief! Evangelical Christianity has had a massive impact and some of their culture has been lost as a result. Recent trends have seen a move to integrate the best of both worlds.

Arrived at caves and spent a couple of hours wandering around these limestone caverns. Mulu boasts many caving records but they are for the enthusiast. As for Paul and I, we both faced our worst fears that morning. I walked on precipitous, poorly constructed steps perched hundreds of feet above the river along the cliff edges to gain access to the caves and Paul spent a long time in a dark, confined space. You would have been proud of us. We, alone, decided to walk all the way back to the camp rather than take the boat. It was absolutely grueling. However we were treated to clouds of butterflies all along the way. We climbed in excess of 2000 steps in temps of 32/33 degrees and with about 90 per cent humidity. (Thanks for all that physio, Graham!) We tackled a small cave on our own and I smacked my head on a protrusion with such force that it knocked me to the ground! In reaching for the last drop of water from the bottle in the pack side pocket, I put my hand on a vicious black beastie which was hitching a free ride and it bit me-just brilliant!

Got back and showered then treated ourselves to a swim and a bite to eat at the swanky resort. Swanky it was but it wasn’t a patch on the campground for friendliness and atmosphere. Rattling home in an old, open-backed truck that passed for a taxi the lightning was flashing to illuminate the otherwise pitch black forest and the fireflies were darting about in the sky; it seemed like we were the only people in the world.

4 Oct: Walked the canopy walkway. 500m of thin plank suspended 30m above the ground. I did it! Paul was so proud of me. We heard hornbills as they beat their massive wings but we couldn’t see them. Fantastic flora. Saw flying stick insects, which turn from oh so boring to dazzling pink, fluttering creatures.

After lunch came the highlight of the Mulu trip; a visit to Deer and Langs caves. Langs cave is so beautiful I was close to tears. Deer is the largest cave passage in the world and home to 3 million bats. After exploring the enormity of it we sat outside until dusk to witness the bats swarming out into the evening air. They were balletic in their curling waves, which came one after another endlessly. It defies description really and I just lay on my back soaking it all up. The black spirals against the white limestone and dusky sky was a once in a lifetime experience. We loved it in Mulu.

We got to bed and a ‘creature’ settled outside our door and made horrific noises for hours. It seemed to go quiet and then we heard a really loud scuttling across the wooden floor of our room. Even Paul was alarmed. I plucked up the courage to put the light on ready to face the monster only to see that the ceiling fan had blown over Paul’s backpack and the straps and buckles had made all the noise. What a night!

Taken over an hour to load some photos so will do more after we get back from next few days in jungle!!