The train trip from San Fran to Portland has definitely been the most picturesque so far. Boarded the train in the evening after a 24 degree day in the sun and woke up among snowy mountain tops and lakes - just beautiful.

I really liked Portland, even staying on an extra night for a total of five nights, but I feel like I didn't actually fully come to grips with the psyche of the place. The general vibe is relaxed, efficient, professional but quite arty and edgy. There's a strong feeling of community spirit, participation and responsibility. The Downtown area was re-planned in the 70s to ensure that you can always see 5 blocks in every direction at each intersection and there's a big emphasis on public transport and bike friendliness. The hostel I stayed at had built up such a good relationship with the neighbours that local businesses donated free pizza, bread and bagels for the guests each day and Tuesday is open-mike night for local musicians at the hostel with lots of the neighbours obviously turning up every week. "Brew and View" movie theatres are also something of a local tradition where they screen movies for $3 in restored historic buildings with the unenforced expectation that patrons will buy a beer and some food to eat while they watch the movie.

But there was a slight hint that all this community-mindedness can be a bit resistant to change. Nearly every sculpture of the many scattered around the city was described by my tour guide as having been "quite controversial" when it was first put in.

So I liked Portland. I really liked it. I think it's my favourite US city so far, and certainly the one I felt most comfortable in. I'm just not sure I really understood it.