Guided tour with water taxi up to Onetahuti, kayaked around Tonga Island to see the seals and then back to Anchorage for a night on a houseboat there.Then hiked back to Maharau the next day. Word of mouth itinerary: the whole thing really.

Stayed at the Happy Apple backpackers. So named I suspect because there´s enough eau de marijuana wafting through y the place to make even the fruit trees pretty happy. Lovely lady at the next door kayaking place planned the next week of my itinerary out for me. Awesome. Moteuka puts in a valliant effort for the Ugliest Town Clock with a stunning pink and blue number but still can´t top Nelson Word of mouth itinerary stops: Mapua Smokeho...

Nelson - Wearable Art Museum I like a town where 20c in the parking meter buys you 15mins to poke around the shops. Noice. I'm beginning to suspect I have too much tupperware to be a "real" backpacker. The others look at me strangely. And the award for Ugliest Town Clock so far goes to Nelson. Word of mouth itinerary stops: Morrison St cafe (truly excellent coffee), Nelson markets (but oller boller cart wasn´t there for the first time anyone can ...

Picton - would someone please send Picton the recipe for savoury muffins. Not one to be found in the place.