Had quite a few conservations with tourists from European countries before I got to FJ about why exactly it´s cool and you should go there.Before I´d seen it it was really hard to reply to the question "but isn´t it just a big block of ice?".Went on a half day glacier trek, complete with crampons (sp?) and it was just wicked.It really is a very very very big block of ice. :-) Word of mouth itinerary stops - glacier, FJ YHA, Bushmans Roadkill Cafe ...

Nick/Rach, it turns out those "lock you in" public toilets are a chain and they all play the same Karen Carpenter song! Word of mouth itinerary stops - Punakaiki Rocks and the Truman Track Other stops - Punakaiki, Monteiths Brewery Tour (mmm beer), Stewart Niman photographic gallery (I want to be this guy when I grow up)

Checked out the seal colony at Cape Foulwind (love the name!) Stayed in an eco backpackers in the middle of nowhere (Charleston), about half an hour south of Westport. The other guests didn´t make it so I had the entire place to myself - kinda cool and kinda weird at the same time. Word of mouth itinerary stops - Buller Gorge, Murchison and eco backpackers

The weather finally packed up at this point so there was no hiking around the lake.Would love to come back sometime though. Stayed in an awesome backpackers which was more like a ski lodge with a few others from all over the place but no Germans at all for the first time on this trip.Learnt Estonian and Norweigan words for "cheers". Haven´t come across a kiwi in a backpackers since Nelson.

Have not camped in a while.Got my tent up like a champ but then realised I had no cooking or eating utensils with me.Cold tomato soup from a mug for dinner :-) Drove up to Farewell Spit and walked to Wharariki Beach. Word of mouth itinerary stops: Pirate Expresso Ship, Wholemeal Cafe, The Mussel Inn, Wharariki Beach