Heading off tomorrow into the jungle of Lore Lindu National Park to search for megaliths and unusual creatures, such as the nocturnal gremlin-like primate called the tarsier. There are also Buton hornbills, and pigmy versions of several mammals including elephants and buffalo, and many other creatures that are unique to Sulawesi. It's worth mentioning here the story of the English naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace who began to send letters to Charles Darwin from ...

It didn't feel very appropriate handing over 100 cigarettes to the family of the deceased, but we were told that this would be an appropriate gift for attending a funeral. It was greatly appreciated, with smiles all around as we sat cross-legged on the floor drinking the tea we had been offered, and eating the sweets (durian flavoured) and biscuits. This was the reception day, the second day of three, where guests bring gifts and dine at the banquet and socialize...

I inadvertently seem to be following the ancient spice routes which would have seen ships from Europe calling at the Cape of Good Hope in Africa, then onto Cochin in India, Malacca (Malaysia) and then onto Makassar (also known at times as Ujung Pandang) which is a short hop across to the Spice Islands. It is nothing like as scenic as Cochin or Malacca though, and certainly lacks the tourists. "Hello mister" is the greeting that is shouted out from just about eve...