"¡Mire! Hay delphines allí", I said to the village girl standing next to me. She was about nine or ten. Every time she looked at the river there was nothing, and every time she looked at me with a look of puzzlement another couple of dolphins would leap out of the water behind her - "¡Mire, Mire!" Eventually she saw them and was jumping with joy. These were grey river dolphins. I'm sure they toy with us, as did the pink river dolphins that I s...