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Leaving the glaciers behind we took a quick spot to view Lake Matheson, known for it's still waters and fabulous mountain reflections. Unfortunately for us the mountains were clouded over and the view not so amazing! Oh well.
We carried on to Queenstown, which for a small city is an adventure capital. It was founded when gold was discovered in 1862 and within a year it was a mining town with streets, permanent buildings and a population of several thousand. It was declared 'fit for a queen' by the government and the name Queenstown took hold. On the way in we stopped at the Kawarau Bridge to see where the world's first commercial bungy took place. Not liking the idea of having my feet tied together and bouncing on a piece of rubber, I declined to take part. However, several of our bus party did take part. It was stomach clenching to see them shuffle to the side of the bridge and then after a count of 3 hurl themselves off. Some went into the water, others opted not to. Either way - mad people!
We arrived in Queenstown quite late, but with enough time to go up in a gondola to look out over the city. The view from the observation deck was stunning. Towering mountains surrounded the city, whilst blue water contrasted and sparkled below. As part of the package we got to see a Kiwi Haka show, where you could experience traditional Maori song and dance. It was an educational show and interesting to watch. It explained about the traditional welcome, the spear used for fighting and how they fought each other. Although only half an hour long it was good to see, and made me want to experience more of the Maori culture. The creme de la creme of the evening was the buffet meal. One other person from the bus, a Candian called Blair, joined me for the evening. We were given a table by the windows, overlooking Queenstown and got to enjoy the sunsetting. It was beautiful and the meal delicious. We started with soup, then went on to fresh fish (scallops, oysters, mussels, salmon etc), with entrees alongside. There was a range of mains including New Zealand lamb which just melted in the mouth. Finally a mass array of yummy deserts ending the evening well. I think it was the best meal I have had since travelling.
The next day I took time out to wander round and enjoy the city. It was very cosmopolitan and made for travellers. There was an alpine feel about it, and in winter when the snow is on the mountains it is a very attractive place for the skiers and snowboards. Boutique restaurants and bars line the streets as so do expensive shops and souvenirs! And here I booked in my sky dive.
I had wanted to sky dive in Australia but for one reason or another it never happened and I am glad it didn't. What better place was there to jump from a plane with snow topped mountains and stunning lakes. Far better than the beach - well in my opinion anyway. The next day it was time to jump. Part of me wanted the weather to have turned and the the jump to be cancelled but the other part of me really wanted to experience it. I booked an early jump so that I wouldnt have to think about what I was doing.
Luckily, it dawned well and the weather was fit for a jump. I was using vouchers given to me when I left my work for this, so I wanted to make the most of it. We were driven out to the jumpsite and told that only three of us would jump at a time. Thinking it would not be long until the jump occurred I helped myself to a coffee as 2 of the people on the bus were called to jump. Then another 3 were called and it was nearly an hour later of stewing before it was my turn to jump.
We were given jumpsuits and strapped tightly into a harness. Certainly no chance of a toilet stop! We were told what to do when we jumped from the plane (adopt a banana position) and we told that each jump master had 3 parachutes on them so should the first fail there were at least 2 more! Reassuring! Then we were led out to the tiniest plane ever. The two people who were jumping with me climbed in first with their jumpmaster then I climbed in with my jumpmaster behind, only to realise I was right by the door and would be jumping first. Eek! Luckily because I had chosen to have a photographer and video, he would be jumping out before me to capture my experience.
With three jumpers and their jumpmasters, plus three photographers the plane was cramped. There were no seats, so we had to sit on the floor of the plane, with no extra space either side. Unfortunately cloud had started to come in. We had all booked to do a 12,000 feet sky dive but with the cloud we only reached 9,500 feet. But a jump is a jump. I was strapped tightly to my jumpmaster, which included literally sitting on his crotch as he attached himself to my harness in 5 different places. Lewid jokes were aforth, but it this helped to ease the tension as did the beautiful view out of the window. Then the door opened....!
I had to shuffle to the edge of the door and sit there with my legs tucked under the plane. The master would rock me three times then we would jump. I was to adopt the banana position (legs between his bent back, back arched and my head leaning back on his shoulder) and to hold my harness until he tapped me to say I could let go. I immediately forgot all this, because as soon as I put my legs out to tuck them under the plane the force of air pushed them out. I didnt notice the rocking as all I could see was the ground far, far, far below me. Before I knew it I was out of the plane and falling. I expected to have a stomach drop like on a rollercoaster, but it was nothing like that. It wasn't even that scary as the force of the wind rushing past you stopped you thinking or feeling. I forgot about holding the harness as I noticed the camera man beside me and started showing off - oops!
The freefall was about 30 seconds longer and I found it really hard to breath. The air was rushing past so quickly I could not co-ordinate my body to gasp any of it. It was like putting your head into a waterfall- where as the water rushes past it takes the oxygen with it. I had to really concentrate on my breathing. Initially when you jump you tumble upside down and round before the master releases a small chute which helps the freefall descend in a straightline. I had not noticed any of this. Just when I thought I would run out of air, I felt the jumpmaster reach for the parachute and with a small pull, the parachute floated out, the free fall was over and we were gently falling. My photgrapher whizzed past and carried on his descent. We had dropped 6000 feet in 30 secs at about 200km per hour. Now was time to enjoy the sight and boy was it beautiful.
We floated around, looking at the mountains and clear lakes, floated over farm fields and started to come into land. When I paraglided in India we landed sitting. This time we came in and were able to land on our feet. The experience was over and over too fast and whilst it was amazing, I know I did not appreciate it all. Definitely something to do again and as my ears survived without bursting the drums, something to also do at a higher height. Wahoo and thank you guys at work for the joy of it.
I was buzzing for the rest of the day, and everything else seemed like an anti-climax. It also made me incredibly tired and slightly depressed. Apparently this is a common side effect! I meet two boys who had also jumped for a few drinks to celebrate our surviving but was soon in bed.
My final day in Queenstown was to visit the well recommended Milford Sounds, judged as one of the top tourist sights and described by Kipling as the eighth wonder of the world. Carved out by 5 glaciers, Milford Sound runs 15 kilometres inland from the Tasman Sea and is surrounded by sheer rock faces that rise 1,200 metres or more on either side. It is one of the wettest places in the world with a mean annual rainfall of 6,813 mm on 182 days a year. This results is stunning waterfalls cascading off the mountains into the water but also means it is one of the best places to visit in the rain!
The journey there was a long one, as the road looped down through Te Anua instead of being direct over the mountains. This meant we got to see all the varieties of countryside New Zealand has on offer. We wound through bracken and moors, farmland and through dense forest. We stopped regularly for picture opportunities, including part of the forest where Lord of the Rings was filmed. The road is a particularly difficult one and bus drivers have to pass a course to drive on it, as weather conditions can vary so much (it can be sunny on oneside and snowing on the other) and there are frequent land and snowslides. The road is one of the more dangerous public roads in New Zealand, with injury crash rates around 65% higher than the rest of New Zealand's network, and a fatality crash rate of almost twice the average.
Having passed through the farmland, we then started winding through the mountains. Snow and mini-glaciers began to appear. Passing through a tunnel, our driver had explained that before the tunnel was built the post man had to once a week climb up oneside of the mountain, then scramble down the near verticle slope on the other side. Quite a job! Then through the other side, the sight was incredible. A valley laid out before us, with thick green forest and rocky mountains occassionally touched with snow. It was certainly a sight to see.
Finally we reached the marina for the Milford Sounds. It was beautiful and again words are hard to describe it. The water sparkled with a purity and was a beautiful glacier colour, whilst the surrounding mountains were just majestic. It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. The boat cruised around each side of the Fjord, allowing us to see the waterfalls cascading off and tumbling around rocks, forming rainbows here and there where the sun hit the spray. Seals lined lower rocks, jutting out of the water. It was truly an awe-inspiring sight. There was such peace here and you could forget about any issues. It certainly helped lift any lingering depression from the sky dive. I cannot do justice to the sight, and even the many photos I took do not capture the magic of the place. Well worth a visit.
Soon though we had to head back. Unfortunately the bus had other ideas and about half an hour from Te Anua, a hose connected to the fan in the engine burst off and could not be fixed. Luckily another bus was soon on route to help us, but we were still delayed returning home by an hour. Oh well, these things do happen.
So Queenstown, an amazing place. It was full of adventure and fun but also the gateway to an outstanding place. I am glad I spent time here and did what I did. It is an experience I will never forget.
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