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We left the excitement of Baños to head to Tena, the base town for the jungle. Ever since I was little, the Amazon jungle has fascinated me and now I was actually going to get the chance to go. Whilst it would not be in the vast middle of the jungle or even in Brazil, it was still the Amazon jungle.
The trip Gap had organised was to stay with a village tribe in the jungle. Our village was Machacuyacu, just on the edge of the jungle. Taxi trucks took us there. I sat on the outside and loved it as the wind whistled past. The force was tremendous and would pull the edge of your face! We soon turned off the main road and headed up a rocky dirt road into the jungle and our village that would be home for the next 3 nights.
The first sight that greeted me was a playing field in the middle of the jungle surrounded by concrete buildings. Not what I had imagined! However, just as we left the road and went onto the field a black snake darted in front of the truck. Jungle style indeed. The buildings turned out to be schools for the village and the actual houses were made of wood and thatched roofs. We were led down a small path over a tiny stream to our houses. Though rustic in appearance, these had been specifically built for tourists and and were not really basic. We still could not escape the jungle even here though as our tiny bathroom housed a centipede and a bees nest!
The afternoon had been planned so that we could meet the locals and play football with them. It was hot and humid though, so the village adults stayed back leaving us to play with the extremely cute younger children of the village. They loved us and had great fun messing around with us. Finally the adults were lured out to play and so the game began - visitors v. locals. At first our boys did really well and were 4 goals ahead. But then the heat started to get to them and soon the locals were pulling back and went on to win. The best thing about the match were the kids who were routing for us. They sat on a bamboo pole just behind our goal, whooping and cheering. At half time they picked up the pole between them and carried it round the pitch so they could sit behind our goal again. It was very cute.
The day ended with our first dinner and as we soon found out, would always consist of some form of banana. As night crept in, candlelight was the only light available. The village had electricity but only when it was run by a generator which they turned on for special occasions. As the light dwindled larger insects appeared, bees of mammoth size, huge moths and other gigantic insects including a massive preying mantis. The locals took great delight in our occasional screams! With no entertainment provided, it was fortunate I had brought along my Uno cards and this kept us amused every night and whenever we had free time. I have never played so many games in my life!
We were woken at 5am the next morning to take part in a traditional ceremony. We were first given Yabbusa to drink which would aid agility in hunting. This was ok to drink, kind of like a tea. Next we were given Chicha, made of the Yuka plant. This was one of the most disgusting drinks I have ever tried.There was a slight hint of beer about it which I don't drink anyway, but even the boys who did drink beer found it frightful. Served in a coconut bowl, it was a real effort to drink it all. It was the custom for music to be played at the ceremony, but as this occurred each day at 4am a couple of our group refused to get up for it so the music was abandoned. Shame!
Following a quick nap and breakfast, we set out to the school to officially meet the children. Starting at the nursery, tiny little children sat around a table finishing their breakfast as we walked in. They stared at us with massive eyes in absolute bewilderment. Their teacher asked them to say their names but only a few were brave enough to face the 'big white people'. They were then asked to sing a song which they had obviously been learning. Singing being the operative word! Those who could, yelled the song out as loud as possible. At first they had to do it in Quechua, and every so often it went quiet as they forgot the words. Then they repeated it in Spanish and it was a whole different ball game with them all singing at the top of their tiny lungs! We then had to introduce ourselves and play with them. There was a tiny baby on the bed, who cried when I went near her - typical! The older kids were just bemused or simply concentrated harder on their breakfast. It is far easier to play when you know their language.
After a few awkward minutes we left the nursery to head to the other 2 buildings where the rest of the children, aged up to about 11, were waiting for us. We were again greeted with their names and a song, which once again was yelled rather than sung. The boys who we had played football with us were very confident but the girls extremely shy. Luckily this time we did not have to play and quickly thanked them and left. Phew.
Next stop was to visit the witchdoctor. We followed a path that lead out through the jungle (and mud!) to a clearing where a wooden house stood. Here the doctor awaited us. He explained to us different leaves and plants that they use, which to summarise, cured everything. We were asked to sit on benches under blankets and breathe in the fumes of a huge cauldron full of plants which had been left simmering- very much like a facial sauna. This would apparently cure all ills. All I remember was it being very hot and sweaty!
We were then shown how they make thread from cactus plants. First they stripped off the outside thorns, then broke the leaf back. This was then bent around something round before finally having the outer shell stripped by a knife. Eventually all was left were some threads which would be left to dry and then washed. It was quite incredible. The threads are used in a variety of ways but could be used to make bracelets and necklaces. We were shown how to weave them and make our own, including using a Huayruro bead . This is actually the seed of a tree, dried and then a hole drilled into it. It was believed to bring good luck and wealth.
Finally, it was time for a spot of lunch and a greeting from a pet anaconda called Jackie. Our family who were looking after us, were keeping her as a pet until she grew too big to live in the house any more. Interesting choice of pet.
The afternoon herald an awesome walk through the jungle. Armed with wellingtons we set off. It was a good job we did have the gollashes as the path in parts was thick mud that attached to the wellies and sucked them hard before you had a chance to pull your foot up. As we wandered through the jungle our guide showed us all the remarkable plants around, including a tree which when cut bled red. This liquid could be used for a variety of treatments including acne! Next we were shown the coca growing with its massive pink buds. The path seemed to continue forever uphill as we wove in and out around the trees. We stopped beside a palm bush and our guide cut the stem of a leaf. He whacked it down and the stem broke open into a fan shape of smaller leaves. It was a like a magic trick. Locals used them for skirts, shelter etc. and you could certainly see why. As the path continued higher, our guide stopped and something darted from the path into the trees beside. It was a coral snake, one of the most deadliest ones around. Eek! Luckily it was, if this is possible, more scared of us and soon disappeared.
Finally, the path branched out into a clearing where there was another wooden house, this time unused. But it was never explained why it was there. Then further along the path rocky outcrops began to appear onto which jungle vegetation climbed, and finally we stopped above an entrance to some caves. We had to use a rope to climb down into them. Once inside it was pitch black and the ground covered in the same gloopy mud. Heath, who was in front of me, had put his hand on the wall to steady himself. He then shone the torch and beside his hand was a massive cave spider, as large as Heath´s hand itself! The body of the spider was not that big, but boy did the legs make up for it. We realised that not only had we to be careful where we put our feet but we had to watch where we put our hands too. We also had to be extremely quiet. There were bats living in the cave and no way did we want to disturb them! But as we wandered through the caves we saw spectacular Stalactites and Stalagmites. It was all very surreal - only spoilt by the noise our wellies. Each time we pulled them out of the sucking mud they made a rude farting sound much to the amusement, of course, of the boys. Typical!
Emerging from the caves we were back into the humid heat of the jungle and faced with an hour's walk back to our rooms. Maybe because we were only on the edge of the jungle or perhaps we were near a village, the jungle was not as imposing as I had imagined it to be. The trees neither loomed overhead or seemed as impenetrable as they should. It made me want to head to Brazil and see what the Amazon jungle would be like,
In the evening we had the opportunity to see the Shaman and try the hallucinogenic drink. Only David, Alex and myself opted to do this. The drink was called Ayahyasca and was supposed to allow you to see yourself out side of your body whilst experience images and so forth. Whilst I do not take drugs but being interested in rituals I thought that this would be an interesting experience. It was also a natural drink. With some trepidation, we set off into the dark to meet our spiritual guide.
Our tour guide took us to a hut where we sat in the dark only lit by two candles and he explained what would happen. After taking the drink, it would impact within a few minutes. Our shaman would also take the drink to guide us in the spiritual world and keep us from harm. One by one we took the Ayahyasca, which did not taste anything, followed by a shot of whisky. Then we waited in the dark. I do not know what I expected to happen. I felt sleepy and kept imaging someone beside me but that was probably more my dark imagination working overtime. I saw some things but there again, when you close your eyes to sleep you often see various images, and this was more or less what happened.
As we sat there our shaman asked our guide to get David to sit in front of him. He then performed various moves, including shaking a leaf around his head and so forth. He told David to picture his perfect place and the shaman would meet him there. Finally, after several more moves and noises, the shaman told David he would be successful in life and sent him to his seat.
Next it was Alex´s turn. The drink seemed to have affected him and he could barely move. He had to be helped up and instructions had to be repeated several times to him. Finally it was my turn. I sat on this tiny chair in front of the shaman. He asked me to pass a stone ´through´my body, i.e. around. I got told off for not concentrating enough, but it was hard to take it all in! He then proceeded to chant whilst shaking some leaves around my head and body. I tried to make it work but to be honest I was too conscious of what was going on. He then past his hands around my body before kissing the top of my head. I was then told to grip his arms and suddenly he began sucking my fingers. It was all a bit odd. Finally I was asked to return to my chair and the evening was over. Before we left though I got told that I had two boys fighting over me (I wish) and I had a baby soul (i.e. good) hmm.
Our guide was from Peru and Inca, and did not believe in all this and began to argue with the shaman over the advice given. On the way back we passed a small stream and stopped to see a frog that was croaking. I was standing very still, when for some unknown reason (and I dont think it was the drink), I slipped over. As I sat there laughing Alex rushed over and quickly pulled me up. Unknowingly, I had fallen on an ant path. They were crawling all over me and started to bite. Hastily we got back to the rooms where I had to change clothes and kill all the ants that had worked their way up my jeans. Nasty things.
Thinking back to the sharman. It was interesting to have had experience of a different religion with its differing rituals and practice. For me this is the whole point of travelling and to learn more of different cultures. I was disappointed the drink did not work but there again, also relieved. It is not everyday you get to say you tried a hallucinogenic drink with a shaman in the jungle!
The next day we were taken down the river to an animal sanctuary within the jungle. Travelling in a narrow but motorised canoe boat down the rapid river, it was lovely to sit back and watch the jungle go past. We got a bit wet near some small rapids but along the way we saw monkeys playing in the trees. It was awesome. At the sanctuary it was explained that they rescued hurt animals or animals that have been kept as pets and then discarded. Wherever possible they were released back into a protected part of the jungle. We got to see a variety of birds, monkeys, lizards and ocelots and jaguinis. A grey feathered trumpeter called Trumpy (a bird) followed us around the park and stopped whenever we did and led the way as much as possible. Very cute. It was great to see the jungle animals, but as with any zoo I wished the animals were back in their real enviroment.
On the way back we stopped to fish for piranahas. We were given a small block of wood with string attached and a hook at one end on which we had to attach a bit of meat. We tried for an hour but unfortunately did not catch anything more than a few twigs!
Finally it was back to our lodgings and the afternoon's activity- blow darts. We were shown how to carve a dart in a matter of seconds (it works best funnily enough with a sharp knife). From a twig we eventually ended up with a dart about the size of a kebab skewer. Then the dart blower was brought out. 3 metres long, it was used to hunt jaguar etc. It was hard to hold and I could not imagine being able to blow the dart out. A couple of targets had been set up several metres away, one had a guava on a thin pole and the second had my travelling companion, Monkey. I had decided that as we were in the jungle, it made perfect sense for Monkey to come out and play and so there he perched patiently waiting to be attacked.
Our family showed us how to blow the dart. We all took a go but no one hit anything. On the second attempt I managed to hit the pole holding up the guava. How I got that tiny stick I will never know, but I was definitely the first to hit something! As we carried on David and Phil both got the guava. Our family dad then got Monkey. To make it easier for us Monkey was placed on top of the guava and the rounds began again. Amy was the first to get Monkey, followed by the boys. On my last go I got the guava so was happy. It was so much fun though I don´t think Monkey was impressed!
Our last evening had arrived. We were invited to the village for a farewell dance. In honor of this the generator had been turned on and we had electricity! The chief of the village welcomed us (a wee bit late!!) and explained the evening performance. We were shown traditional dance, including a wedding. It was lovely, albeit the dances were simple. Inevitably, we were then asked to perform. We knew this was probably coming and so had racked our brains for a good few hours before hand to think of something to do. The best we could think of was Old MacDonald. Luckily there were plenty of children in the audience. Unfortunately they did not get it and there was stony silence at the end. Oh well at least we tried. After goodbye speeches on both sides the evening was over, as was our stay in the jungle.
Our time there had been an amazing one. We had got to learn about local life and jungle living and it had wet my appetitive to explore deeper into the jungle. I can say now that I have walked the Amazon, fished for piranahas, learnt to blow a dart and also drunk with a Shaman. An unforgettable experience.
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