Bangkok - Chiang Mai, February 12, 2018

We took an early morning walk for exercise this morning - boy, have I been missing the opportunity to get some air in my lungs. We thought about going to the hotel gym but the morning looked inviting and there is a paved walkway along the river. The walkway connects Phra Sumen Fort, one of only two forts still remaining in Bangkok since 1782, and Santichaiprakarn Park on the east end to Thammasat University on the far west end. The morning was beautiful and people were just beginning to come out and get about their business. At the park, a class was performing Tai Chi. Others sat cross-legged on the river wall and performed their morning meditation. We first walked to the park and around it then made the loop to the university and back again. It's amazing what a simple 30-40 minute fast paced-walk can do for you!

We had a noon flight to Chiang Mai. Before going to the hotel, our new guide, Bay, took us outside the city to the Tiger Kingdom. I was under the impression that this was a tiger refuge/rescue type facility. It was nothing more than a high-priced petting zoo. It completely disgusted me. You can enter several different fenced yards and take pictures with tigers of varying ages --- some pens have mature tigers, some have younger ones. The handlers tell you how to behave; no fast movements; no approaching the animal from the front. They tell you to set at the tiger's rear and to pet him with a firm hand—no gentle stroking. Then they say it's ok to grab the tiger's tail

We went into one cage, petted a couple of tigers, and I called it quits. I simply cannot participate is something like this. It turns my stomach to see such animal exploitation take place. Granted, we didn't see any animal being harmed in any way, and the animals appeared well-fed, but their lives are spent being teased with tidbits of raw chicken meat while humans pet them, lie down with them, grab their tales and take photos. Unlike modern zoos, their space did not in the slightest way replicate their natural habitat. The idea of entertaining people at the expense of captive animals is something that is simply wrong. We left.

I think we shocked our guide with our reaction to the Tiger Kingdom. This, of course, was not his fault but I think he was appalled that we found the place so distasteful. He was anxious to please. I mentioned a sign I saw that spoke of elephant poo poo paper. He asked if we want to visit it. Why not?? Now this place was interesting!!! It showed us a lovely way they recycle tons of elephant poop - what else you gonna do with that stuff??? Elephants live in Thailand. They regularly spend 20 hours a day doing nothing but eat, and their food pretty much goes out in about the same shape it went in - very massive and full of fiber.

We saw how the big mounds of poop is first dried, then rinsed, and rinsed, and rinsed to clean it and to remove the smell; then it is boiled for several hours to soften it. After the digested plant fiber is cleaned of dirt, sticks and anything else the elephant might have eaten, the pure boiled poop is pounded into a pulp and dyed with natural dyes and formed into colorful balls. To make the paper, the dyed ball is placed on a framed screen and lowered into a vat of water. The ball is dissolved, broken up into a mush and using our fingers, we spred the fibers evenly on the screen. We lifted the screen from the water and placed it on racks in the sun to dry. The result is a beautiful, thick textured paper that you've probably seen made into journal covers, note cards and other nice gift items.

We checked in to another absolutely lovely hotel, hidden away in a narrow alley from the street, The Puripunn Baby Grand Boutique Hotel. I sure hope we get a moment to enjoy relaxing in one of their thickly padded lounge chairs admiring their rich-looking tropical pool tomorrow.